Friday, June 29, 2012

East Bay Gas Lines - Top 10 Safety Tips for Barbecue & Grilling

Everything has risks. Knowing what those risks are and how to reduce them is the secret to success. When cooking outdoors, whether hot and fast grilling, or low and slow barbecue there are a few things you need to know to make sure nothing goes wrong and how to get the most out of your cooking.
Combining explosive fuels with food, hot metals, and large groups of people can cause be a recipe for disaster if you are not careful. Of course, there is more to outdoor cooking safety than just the fire.

1. Fire

Fire is the most destructive force in the universe and you are inviting it into your backyard for a little cookout. First thing you need is a fire extinguisher. Next you need to know your fire and know how to control it. Every year grills and smokers cause thousands of fires, hundreds of injuries, dozens of deaths and millions of dollars in damage. You need to know how to cut fuel supplies, extinguish fires and call the fire department. Always have one person in charge of the fire at all times, a fire marshal if you will. You should also know something about treating burns.

2. Food Safety

Bacteria eats every kind of food you can think of, even brussel sprouts. It grows at any temperature above freezing and stays alive until that temperature hits around 165 degrees F. Every second you give it between these two temperatures it is multiplying and causing disease in your food. So, until it goes in to your mouth or on the grill, it needs to be kept cool. The second you are done serving it up, it goes back in the refrigerator. The basic rules are: Suspect Everything, Keep it Covered, Keep it Cool, Get it Hot!, and Use your Head. Remember you are more likely to get food poisoning than you are to get the flu.

3. Instructions

You'd be surprised by how many questions I get asked when the answer was in the manual. Please, read the manual . Follow all the safety restrictions to the letter. If you have a fire and you didn't follow the instructions it is your fault, no matter what. Grills, gas or charcoal, and smokers all have very specific ranges of operation. You need to know these before you light up. Don't assume that your new grill works just like the last one and that all the same rules apply. One hint: You can find the manuals to most grills and smokers on the manufacturers website.

4. Location

Location is everything when it comes to placing your grill or smoker. Every year hundreds of people cause fires to their houses, garages and patios because they didn't put their grill or smoker in the correct location. Your manual (tip #3) will tell you the minimum distances around your unit that must be kept clear. I suggest that you take a good look at your equipment and imagine the worst fire you can. Make sure there isn't anything (buildings, trees, etc.) in that space. Also make sure that you unit isn't going to require people to walk too close to hot surfaces and that children won't be playing nearby.

5. Gas Safety

The number one cause of gas grill fires is an obstruction in the path of the fuel. This largely takes place, behind, underneath or inside your grill where you do not look. This means you need to regularly inspect your gas grill for problems. Bugs and other critters can climb into little places causing gas to flow where it shouldn't. At the first sign of problems turn off your control values, turn off the fuel tank, and disconnect everything. Gas grills produce a great deal of heat that can melt through hoses, knobs and other parts. Assume everything is third degree burn hot.

6. Charcoal Safety

Charcoal grills are the cause of far more fires that gas grill. The number one problem with charcoal grill is lighting the charcoal. Lighter fluid causes all kinds of problems and you should really find a better way to light your coals. What really burns the hair off your face is adding lighter fluid to hot coals. Lighter fluid turns to a heavy gas at a relatively low temperature. While liquid lighter fluid burns, evaporated (gaseous) lighter fluid explodes. Flow the instructions exactly and don't ever let lighting charcoal become a game.

7. Grease

Bad enough that you are using flammable materials to do your cooking, but the food itself is creating more. Flare-ups are more than a nuisance, they are potentially lethal. Grease that collects in your grill builds up over time. It is easy to get several pounds of grease in the bottom of your grill after only a few cookouts. This is why you need to keep your grill clean. A clean grill is a safer grill whether it is gas or charcoal. Also, smokers are not exempt from this problem as I have seen many uncontrollable grease fires in smokers. So no matter what you use, get the grease out.

8. Cancer

Cooking (by any method) of meats (particularly red meat and chicken) at very high temperatures until surface charring occurs can cause cancer causing substances (Heterocyclic Amines (HCA)) to form. If you eat a lot of grilled meats you need to worry (though no one knows exactly how much). To minimize the risk you need to:
  • Use marinades (which can reduce the risk by as much as 98%)
  • Do not over cook foods
  • Keep grill temperatures relatively low (under 600 degrees cooking temperature)
  • Use thinner or smaller cuts of meat (kebabs are great)

9. Smoke

Smoke gets in your hair, clothes, eyes, and lungs. While a big part of the cookout experience is the smoke, you need to be careful with smoke. Smoke from your grill or smoker contains carbon monoxide, Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAH), and other dangerous substances. PAH are cancer causing substances that are formed when grease burns. As much as we all love the smell of the smoke from our outdoor cooking it is best to let it get away without breathing it in. So enjoy the smell from a distance and remember that the younger you are when you are exposed to this stuff the worse the outcome.

10. Alcohol

After reading the nine above you really shouldn't have to ask. Grilling and smoking require some clear thinking, especially when it's time to pull it all together. Please, keep a clear head and save that drink for after the fire is out and someone else is dealing with the dishes.
 
source: By , About.com Guide
 

Thursday, June 28, 2012

East Bay Gas Lines Danville - How to Repair a Flame Sensor

How to Repair a Flame Sensor


A flame sensor is a very small and specific component of furnaces, but when it is malfunctioning, it can completely shut down the operation of your heating system. To start with, let’s summarize how a flame sensor works.
The flame sensor is a rod that sits directly in the path of one of the burners in your furnace. When the burner is on, the flame passes by the tip of the flame sensor, heating it up. If the furnace is on but the flame sensor is not hot, the furnace automatically switches off to avoid a continuous gas leak. So, the flame sensor is a safety measure.
Sometimes, though, the furnace can be operating just fine, and the burners are firing perfectly, the flame sensor still sends the signal that there is no flame and shuts down the furnace. This is obviously a problem.
Often, this is just a symptom of build-up on the flame sensor that is insulating it and preventing it from heating properly. We strongly recommend that you call a professional to repair it; here are the steps that they will follow:
  • Locate the flame sensor on the furnace. It is a thin metal rod that extends through a bracket and into the path of the flame as it is expelled from one of the burners.
  • Turn off the power to the furnace.
  • Loosen the bracket holding the flame sensor in place and gently withdraw it.
  • Using fine grit sandpaper or emery cloth, gently rub away any combustion build-up that has accumulated on the end of the flame sensor.
  • Making sure all the build-up has been removed, replace the flame sensor in the bracket. Turn the furnace back on to test it.
If all went well, the furnace should remain on now, until the desired heating temperature is reached. Most often, the problem is as simple as giving the flame sensor a good cleaning up. Since you are dealing with quite delicate equipment, you can understand why it is so important to us if suspect a problem with your flame sensor.

source: http://www.efficient-systems.com

www.eastbaygaslines.com

Thursday, June 21, 2012

Plumbing Danville - How Much does it Cost to Burn Gas Logs - East Bay Gas Lines

How much does it cost to burn a gas log, or how much gas a particular gas log will consume.

Calculating the Cost to Burn Liquid Propane:


Liquid propane is normally sold either by the Pound or by the Gallon. So in order to make use of the BTU rating of a gas log to calculate the amount of propane gas it will consume and attribute a cost to that, we need to know how many BTUs there are in a pound or gallon of LP gas. Here is that information:

1 Pound of LP Gas = 22,000 BTUs
1 Gallon of LP Gas = 91,500 BTUs

Now that you have that information, you can easily calculate the amount of gas any gas log (or gas appliance for that matter) will consume. You simply divide the BTU rating of the burner by the BTUs for the unit of measure you want to check. Here is an example of performing the calculation for a 40,000 BTU gas log:

Pounds of LP Gas Used: 40,000 BTUs divided by 22,000 BTUs = 1.818 Pounds
Gallons of LP Gas Used: 40,000 BTUs divided by 91,500 BTUs = 0.442 Gallons

Calculating the Cost

If you know the cost per pound or gallon of your the LP gas that you purchase, simply multiply this by the calculated usage above. On our website, we actually perform these calculations for you on each one of our gas log product pages...but the calculation we perform is based on the National Average for the cost of Propane Gas, which in fact varies widely by region.

The National Average cost of LP Gas is $2.536 per gallon according to the EIA (U.S. Energy Information Administration) as of January 2010

Using this information, we are able to calculate the average cost in the USA to operate a 40,000 BTU gas log using this formula:

40,000 BTUs divided by 91,500 BTUs/gallon times $2.536/gallon = $1.11 per hour

Calculating the Cost to Burn Natural Gas


Natural Gas is normally sold to the residential consumer by the Therm (100,000 BTUs) or Ccf (100 cubic feet = 102,700 BTUs). So in order to make use of the BTU rating of a gas log to calculate the amount of Natural Gas it will consume and attribute a cost to that, we can use these numbers to do the math:

1 Therm of Natural Gas = 100,000 BTUs
1 Ccf of Natural Gas = 102,700 BTUs

Now that you have that information, you can take the BTU rating of a gas log and translate it into useable information by converting the BTUs into Therms or Ccf. To do this, you simply divide the BTU rating of the burner by the BTUs in a Therm or Ccf. Here is an example of performing the calculation for a 40,000 BTU gas log:

Therms of Natural Gas Used: 40,000 BTUs divided by 100,000 BTUs/Therm = 0.40 Therms
Ccf of Natural Gas Used: 40,000 BTUs divided by 102,700 BTUs = 0.389 Ccf

Calculating the Cost

You can find the cost of your natural gas in either Therms or Ccf by looking at your gas bill. If a different unit of measure is used, you will need to convert a little additional math in order to perform the conversion properly. However, according to the EIA, these 2 units of measure are the most commonly used for by gas companies when billing residential consumers. So, take the cost/Therm or Ccf and multiply by the Therms or Ccf used by the gas logs found from the previous calculation above.

On our website, we actually perform these calculations for you on each one of our gas log product pages based on the National Average for the cost of Natural Gas, which varies widely by region.

The National Average cost of Natural Gas is $1.368 per Therm according to the EIA (U.S. Energy Information Administration) for 2008. Based on this information, we are able to calculate the average cost in the USA to operate a 40,000 BTU gas log using this formula:

40,000 BTUs divided by 100,000 BTUs/Therm times $1.368/Therm = $0.55 per hour

By: Greg Tillotson
Gas Log Expert & Webmaster for Hansen Wholesale


www.eastbaygaslines.com

Thursday, June 14, 2012

East Bay Gas Lines Danville, CA - How to Read Electric and Gas Meters

How to Read Electric and Gas Meters

Most people ignore their meters and only think about gas and electric use when the bill shows up every month. But, by ignoring those meters, you miss possible warning signs that something is wrong with an a heating or air conditioning system. Imagine getting a $1,000 gas bill because of a faulty boiler or furnace. Had you checked the meter in advance, you would have been able to repair the furnace before the usage increased so much.
Here are some tips for reading different types of meters in your home.

Electric Meter

The electric meter measures usage in kilowatt-hours. A watt is the basic unit of electricity you use and a kilowatt is one thousand watts. A kilowatt hour is the usage of 1,000 watts in one hour. As electricity moves through your meter, it causes a motor to turn and your meter increases, matching your total usage.
The more current you draw at any given time, the faster the gears turn and the more your meter goes up. To read an electric meter, write down numbers from right to left and make sure you go to the smaller number if the hand falls between two numbers.

Gas Meter

Gas is measured in cubic feet. For every cubic foot of gas you use, you are billed accordingly. Of course, your bill isn’t as simple as that. Instead of simply billing for a cubic foot, the gas company often bills in “therms” which represent 100 cubic feet or (CCF). The meter installed in your home measures the gas pressure as it flows through the meter. To read your gas meter, go from left to right, recording the numbers across the meter.

Using Your Meter Readings

It is a good idea to keep an accurate count of your meter readings, especially if your gas meter is only read once every two or three months and the rest of your bills are estimated. This allows you to know what you owe and make adjustments to your consumption throughout the month to keep your bills down. If you need help with reading a meter please call East Bay Gas Lines.

source - http://www.efficient-systems.com

www.eastbaygaslines.com

Wednesday, June 13, 2012

East Bay Gas Lines Danville, CA - What uses Gas in Your Home?

What happens if you lose your gas line? What relationship does that simple copper pipe have to the comfort control of your home? It depends largely on the scope of your heating and air conditioning system and what time of the year you lose gas, but the answer is almost always that it will have a pretty big impact.

What Uses Gas in Your Home?
There are a number of components that use gas in your home. The first and most common is your furnace, but you will find that your water heater may also use a gas line and some packaged air conditioning systems use gas for heating components.
  • Heating – If you have a gas line, it’s very likely that your heating system uses gas as an energy source. It’s the least expensive of the three major energy sources (oil, gas and electricity) and gas furnaces and boilers are extremely efficient. In terms of how much gas you will use, one cubic foot of gas contains 1040 BTUs of heating energy per hour.So, if your furnace offers 100,000 BTUs of heating capacity, it would use 96.15 cubic feet of natural gas when running at full capacity. Keep in mind, though, that a gas furnace is rated with an AFUE rating. This is the percentage of the fuel consumed that is actually converted to heat. So, if your AFUE rating is 90%, your actual BTU production would be 90,000 for the same 96.15 cubic feet of gas. The cost of natural gas varies by location, but is generally around $1 per cubic foot.
    Boilers are very similar in their gas consumption rates. Boilers are rated for maximum output – so if you have a 15kW boiler – meaning it will burn the equivalent of 15 kWh of gas per hour when running at full capacity. Keep in mind that this is the maximum output. If you only have one radiator open, the actual rate may be much lower.
  • Water Heating – For a water heater, gas rates are charged by kWh, just like your boiler. The total is usually significantly less than for a boiler, but the same mechanics apply. Your water heater should have a placard or sheet that lists its maximum production per hour so you can determine how much gas it uses per hour when your hot water is in high demand.
Gas is a highly volatile substance and while there are a number of safety measures implemented in your home to protect your family, it’s important to ensure the gas lines are well maintained. Annual maintenance is a must to keep the gas working properly, so call East Bay Gas Lines to schedule your next visit. If you do notice a leak or sudden loss of gas, don’t call a contractor – call the gas company immediately as it could be an emergency.

source  http://www.efficient-systems.com

www.eastbaygaslines.com

Wednesday, June 6, 2012

East Bay Gas Lines Danville, Ca - Natural gas and LP gas appliance compatibility

Natural gas and LP gas appliance compatibility


These two fuels are similar in that both are used to provide energy to home heating systems and other appliances but they have some different properties of weight, method of distribution, and chemistry. Most gas appliances are delivered already set up to use either natural gas or LP gas but not both.

Most gas appliances can be converted from one fuel to the other - what is involved may be simply changing gas metering orifices in the equipment (for example at the burners on a stove) or it may also be necessary to change or adjust a gas regulator located inside the appliance. Do not hook up an LP gas-ready appliance to a natural gas supply nor can you connect a natural-gas ready appliance to an LP gas supply without reviewing and acting on the manufacturer's instructions for converting the appliance from one fuel to the other.

Important Safety Warning: be sure that all gas-fired appliances in your building have been properly set up for the correct type of gas to be consumed.
Do not connect an appliance set up for propane to a natural gas supply, and do not connect an appliance set up for burning natural gas to a propane gas supply without first making the required gas pressure and/or gas metering orifice adjustments. Making either of this mistakes can lead to gas leaks, fire, explosion, or potentially fatal carbon monoxide poisoning.

Virtually every modern gas fired appliance installation manual contains instructions for setting up the appliance to burn the proper fuel: LP gas (liquid propane from a tank installed at the property) or natural gas (piped in gas provided from a local gas utility company).

The pressure provided by natural gas is different from propane - adjustments will be needed at every gas fired appliance in the home.

Usually this means either an adjustment made at each gas burner at a metering device or in some cases a part actually has to be changed (an orifice through which the gas passes). On some appliances there may be a local gas regulator that also needs to be adjusted.

Where a gas burner metering device needs to be set properly for Natural Gas pressure or for LP gas pressure, the adjustment may be as simple as using a screwdriver or tool to turn the orifice from one position to another at each burner, or a part may need to be actually swapped out or exchanged. Appliance installation instructions will include sketches of where these parts are found as well as directions for how to set the metering device or regulator for the proper fuel.

source: http://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Gas_Conversion_LP_NG.htm

www.eastbaygaslines.com

Friday, June 1, 2012

East Bay Gas Lines - Damaging a Gas Line



Utility companies have a vast infrastructure of electric, natural gas, water and wastewater mains and service lines throughout your city and surrounding areas. A large percentage of these lines are underground and out of sight; these lines are very dangerous if exposed or damaged. Because Utility companies care about their citizen owners, they encourage everyone to use the utmost care when digging around any of our lines.

Safe digging practices are an integral part of maintaining personal safety while digging. Below are some important tips and techniques to keep you and the rest of the community safe.

Safety Around Natural Gas

  • If you hit a natural gas line
    • Stop
    • Leave the area and warn others
    • Call your Utility company immediately
    • Remove ignition sources, such as cell phones and cigarettes
    • Do not shut off, squeeze or clamp the gas line
    • Do not bury the broken or damaged line
    • Do not return until the area is declared safe

source: www.csu.org

www.eastbaygaslines.com