East Bay Gas Lines - How to Seal a Gas Line on a Dryer

Once you get your new gas dryer home, you must safely connect it to the gas line. A dryer isn't hard to connect to a gas line, but if you don't do it correctly, it could be dangerous for your family and your home. Improperly connected gas lines to dryers, for instance, allow gas to leak inside the home. Gas buildup can result in an explosion when ignited, and the fumes are not safe to breathe. After connecting your gas line to your dryer, conduct an easy test to ensure it has a good seal and does not leak.

1 Measure the distance from the gas line to where the dryer will be installed. Use the measurement to size the flexible gas hose connection.

2 Match the flexible hose connection to the gas fitting in the house. Gas lines in newer homes are typically made from steel or black iron. Choose the flexible gas hose to match the gas line. For instance, for a steel or iron pipe, use a steel flexible gas line.

3 Clean the threads on the gas pipe that extends from the wall. Gently run the wire brush around the end of the pipe to remove any burrs or debris on the pipe threads. Wipe the threads with a clean soft rag.

4 Apply the gas-rated Teflon tape or pipe thread compound to the threaded end of the gas line in a clockwise direction.

5 Thread the flexible gas hose fitting onto the threads. Then tighten the fitting using the pipe wrench, but don't over tighten.

6 Repeat the thread-sealing procedure for the gas line that comes from the dryer.

7 Fill the water bottle halfway with a 1-to-1 mixture of detergent and water.

8 Turn the gas valve on. The gas valve is on the gas line that extends from the wall. When it is on, the handle is in line with the gas line. When it is off, it is perpendicular to the line.

9 Spray the connection on the gas line that extends from the wall where the flexible gas hose connects to it with the detergent and water mixture. Watch for bubbles to form. If no bubbles form, there are no leaks.

10 Move to the gas connection on the dryer side and repeat the procedure for checking for leaks. If no bubbles form, the gas dryer line is sealed between the gas line and the gas dryer.

Tip

Double-check the pipe tape or pipe thread compound package to ensure each is rated to seal gas lines.

Avoid purchasing a flexible hose that is too short or too long. You don't want the line to kink, twist or compress itself.

Use a soft rag that doesn't leave any fibers on the pipe threads, as these fibers could compromise the seal.

Avoid over tightening the fittings, as you don't want to break them. For homes fitted with copper flare fittings, use the detergent mixture to check all the connections for leaks before using your dryer.

Warning

If you don't have experience or are concerned with doing this project yourself, contact East Bay Gas Lines to hook up your dryer for you. 

source: http://homeguides.sfgate.com/seal-gas-line-dryer-41449.html

by Laurie Reeves, Demand Media

http://www.eastbaygaslines.com

Unreliable Pilot Light - East Bay Gas Lines Danville

Question: Last winter, the pilot light on my gas furnace went out while I was traveling and my water pipes froze, resulting in thousands of dollars of damage. Can I replace the pilot with an electronic model that ignites automatically? And would this solve the problem?



Answer:  Many manufacturers have kits that will allow an HVAC contractor to convert a standing pilot light to an electronic spark-ignition system. The chief advantage of electronic ignition is lower fuel consumption and greater safety because there's no gas to leak if the pilot flame accidentally goes out.

But if your problem is low gas pressure, something I'm hearing more and more about lately, changing to a spark ignition wouldn't much matter. It will try to light the gas up to three times, depending on the type. But if there's not enough pressure, it won't operate.

All you can do is notify your gas utility so they can check on the problem. If inadequate pressure is indeed the culprit, then the company will have to fix its distribution network, and that could be a long time in coming.

source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/asktoh/question/0,,1075606,00.html
by Richard Threthewey


http://www.eastbaygaslines.com

East Bay Gas Lines - How to Convert Your Generator to Run on Propane - Danville

One might ask "Why would I want to have my portable generator running on Propane"? Generators spend much of their life idling away, racking up hour after hour of time. Usually these small engines require oil changes every 100 hrs or so, an amount that can be racked up in pretty short order for a van dweller or any other type of traveler that is relying on a portable generator to supply their electrical power.

Propane operated internal combustion engines run much cleaner allowing service intervals to be extended much longer. With this cleaner running engine you also greatly reduce wear increasing the longevity of your generator by leaps and bounds.

With the sizable investment required just to buy most portable generators, getting twice the life our of generator means your money went twice as far.

So the idea of having a generator running on propane makes sense, now you ask "How do I convert my generator". It's not all that difficult. There are conversion kits available that will make your generator a bi-fuel generator running on either natural gas or propane. Some models can even retain their ability to run on gasoline make them a tri-fuel generator.

The method used to allow your gasoline generator to operate on propane is to install in some instances an adapter between the carburetor that will supply the propane. Some generators require that the carburetor be removed or modified itself.

Beyond extended life and longer service intervals what benefits are there to switching to propane? If your Stealth Van Dwelling is set up with any other propane devices as most RV's are you can setup a quick disconnect propane line that can quickly be coupled to your generator removing the need to mess with gas cans. Danger of fire or explosion is much greater when refueling for transporting gasoline in cans. All this fuss can be eliminated with propane.

Most towable RV's carry at least two propane tanks. You can keep operating on one tank while you remove the second to get it refilled. When you return you can hook the second tank back into the system all without interrupting the flow of fuel to the generator or other propane appliances. Of course this is assuming you have a regulator that allows you to switch from one tank to the other.

Converting your generator to run on propane will eliminate the possibility of flooding the carburetor as it is impossible. Propane is a vapor right from the start. It's impossible to create the situation where you have gasoline running down the side of the generator because excess has also contaminated the oil in the engine and the plugs are wet and fouled. A common occurrence with gasoline, but an impossibility with propane.

Some have even engineered their own propane conversions as shown in this video of a Home Made Propane Conversion. Something not recommended as there are dangers involved with propane too.

I'm convinced already, where can I get a kit for my generator? Small Engine & Generator Conversion Kits is one source, U.S. Carburetor Kits is another source of kits and information. They also are an official factory authorized Yamaha Generator dealer and can sell direct to you portable generators of various sizes that come complete with factory warranties that will operate as tri-fuel generators. They can operate on either gasoline, propane, or natural gas with no modification necessary.

For a modest investment you can make this conversion knowing it will make your life a whole lot more convenient and practical.

source: http://voices.yahoo.com/how-convert-generator-run-propane-2633892.html
by Curtis Carper


http://www.eastbaygaslines.com

East Bay Gas Lines - Home Inspections that Failed

This potato is being used as a cap for an active gas line. Note that it did try to sprout.

Dan Howard

Photo  Dan Howard

This homeowner decided he would fix his dripping temperature pressure relief valve one way or another. A simple replacement would have probably taken as long as it took to get this rigged solution to work.

Brian Mishler

photo - Brian Mishler

This is an interesting example of someone who does not think gas combined with electric can hurt you.

Michael Legatt

photo - Michael Legatt






source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/photos/0,,20206857_20470632,00.html

http://www.eastbaygaslines.com

East Bay Gas Lines Danville - here's the help you need for your furnace and heater repairs

 

 

I can still remember the joy I felt when our old furnace fired up on all six cylinders (a.k.a. burners) and roared to life. I couldn't wait to see the expression on my wife's face when she felt the heat coming into our freezing three-bedroom condo.

The night before had been a cold one. The inside temperature had dropped to 57 degrees, and it was time to turn on the heat. Unfortunately, nothing turned on that dark and frigid morning.

 

After troubleshooting things like the thermostat and gas supply, it was time to have a look inside the furnace.

At 28 years old, it was an oldie but a goodie. It was really dusty though. Really dusty...So much so that a sensor (called a furnace thermocouple), had become covered in years of filth comprised of things I'll never be able to describe.

Needless to say, it couldn't do its job of detecting heat from the pilot and turning on the gas to the burners. It's a sensor after all...it's a bit like asking you to tell if a sunny sidewalk is hot through your shoes!

Happily, all it took was a quick cleaning and tapping of this small metal sensor, and we were up and running again... at least for that day.

As it turned out, while carefully cleaning the innards of our ancient machine got us warmth that morning, it did nothing for an underlying problem that only a professional technician could diagnose: a faulty gas supply valve, which had simply pooped out from age.

Today's forced-air heating systems consist of a furnace heating the air, a large blower (motor-powered fan) for circulation, and a maze of air ducts going throughout your home to deliver the heated air.

A separate system of air ducts is in place to bring back the air for re-heating by your furnace.

Home heater repair often comes when you most need to heat your home, just like us that cold winter morning.

The crummy part is that most furnace and heater repairs require a service professional once you've checked the basics.

The good news is that you can avoid a major heater repair through basic seasonal maintenance, routine cleaning, filter replacements and other adjustments.

It's not completely black and white of course because symptoms like a noisy furnace can be due to a little lack of TLC on your part, needing a simple tune-up or something more dramatic, like a broken component somewhere in the system.

All of this stuff helps give your central heating system a longer life and less need for repair. The most noticeable benefit to you is the cozy, warm house you have when it's really cold outside.

Gas furnace repair can be reduced by keeping the thermocouple, pilot and burner tubes clean. Limit your oil furnace repair by doing tasks like cleaning the oil burners and keeping them well-oiled.

Things can go wrong your system such as broken belts, fan motor failure or thermostat problems. Luckily these issues are rare...but they do happen because even a blue moon comes around sometimes, right?

My goal is to give you some basic furnace and heater repair tips as well as provide many of the maintenance items you can do to help keep your home heating system running so you can live comfortably.

source: http://homerepairgeek.com/heater-repair


http://www.eastbaygaslines.com

East Bay Gas Lines Danville - Gas Grill Maintenance

Photo: Courtesy of Wolf Appliances

Nothing announces the arrival of summer like firing up the grill. Unfortunately, nothing sours a summer party faster than a grill that won't light, smokes too much, or cooks unevenly. Grease, marinades, and sauces wreak havoc on gas burners, while charcoal grills suffer the corrosive properties of charcoal.

Grills of all kinds, from simple kettles to stainless steel restaurant-grade infrared grills, require maintenance to ensure that they perform and last. "At least twice a year you need to pull the grill apart to get inside and take a closer look at it," says Derrick Riches, barbecue and grilling guide for About.com. A thorough cleaning ensures that the burners fire properly, heat distributes evenly, and the grill is safe. Regular maintenance also allows you to catch problems like rust early on. Here is a This Old House primer on keeping your grill in shape.

Inspect the Chassis: Grills with welded joints or connections with pop rivets can rust. Scrub rust off with a stiff wire brush or coarse steel wool, apply a rust-inhibiting primer, and paint the grill's exterior with rust-resistant metal paint. Keep fasteners tight to ensure the base is stable and safe. Replace damaged grill appendages, like wheels, handles, or any other part of your grill, by contacting the manufacturer. You can also refer to the CLA Grills and Service website, or the Appliance Factory Parts website. Use dish soap or a mild detergent to clean cast aluminum grills, and Simple Green all-purpose, biodegradable cleaner for stainless steel ones. 

Clean the Burners: Riches stresses that cleaning burners keeps the unit working at its best. Burner ports can fill with grease and close up, leading to hot and cold spots on the grill. While the unit is cold, use a stainless steel wire brush or flexible pipe cleaner to remove the gunk from a traditional gas burner. The flames should be distributed evenly throughout the burner after a good cleaning. Brush off any ash that accumulates on infrared grills, and be sure to keep the glass clean. Infrared grill manufacturers suggest using Bar Keepers Friend, a non-abrasive cleaner, to remove any deposits. Running the grill for 10 minutes on high after cooking also helps keep the ports free of build up.

Flame Color: There are a couple of reasons gas flames turn from their normal blue with yellow tips to completely yellow. The most common is inadequate gas pressure from the tank. Since propane expands at freezing temperatures, the pressure bladder in the regulator (a round disk attached to the gas line) can freeze into place and limit the flow of gas to the burner. If you have a yellow flame, try this remedy: First, turn the tank off and turn off the grill's control valves. Next, disconnect the tank, then open and close the control valves. Finally, reconnect the tank and slowly turn the gas back on to check the flame's color. Another cause of yellow flame is pressurized propane that, over time, can force the burner ports to widen. As a result, too much gas escapes. Riches recommends inspecting the burners and replacing them if they are misshapen or cracked. Once the burners are cleaned, light the grill to ensure that all flames are blue and similar in height.

Grease traps: Grill grease traps are typically trays or disposable aluminum cups beneath the firebox that collect fat. Keep these traps clean and drained because large pools of grease can ignite. Burners combined with a grease fire will exceed the maximum amount of heat the grill can handle.

Hoses: Replacing a worn or damaged fuel line is an easy task once you locate the problem. Manufacturers suggest coating everything—from the tank, to the venturi tubes, which connect the control valve to the burner—with soapy water. For a neat job, Riches uses a basting brush to apply the soap solution. Then, turn the grill on. Any bubbles that appear on coated areas indicate escaping gas, which can be fixed by replacing the hose or O-ring. The gap in the venturi tubes mixes gas with air enroute to the burner and can easily clog with debris or insects. Riches recommends wrapping the tubes with aluminum screen to let air in and keep bugs out.

Between the Burner and Grate: Sometimes called the radiant or flavorizer bar, this part of the grill evenly distributes heat to the grate above and produces smoke when food drippings seep down. "Most of the wear is in the flavorizer bars, because they see the most heat and grease," says Brooke Jones of Weber Grills. Brush off grease and debris from the metal plates because they can trap moisture and cause rusting. Replace lava rocks or ceramic briquettes if they give off a rancid flavor.

Grill Covers: Keeping a grill protected from the elements is the easiest way to preserve it. Covers should have a cloth inner lining to draw moisture away from the metal. A simple plastic sheet holds moisture in, creating a humid environment around the grill, which can lead to rusting. Use a canvas, cloth, or vinyl cover that fits the grill appropriately. Keep in mind that UV rays beak down cheaper, generic covers.

source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,1638829,00.html
by Sal Vaglica

http://www.eastbaygaslines.com

Gas Line Repair and Work - Skills You Need to Survive Homeownership - Deal With the Strong Smell of Gas - East Bay Gas Lines Danville

Don't get caught with your toolbelt down—learn this technique and tackle any household emergency with ease

A closed-up kitchen with gas flowing from an open unlit burner can create a combustible atmosphere in as little as 10 seconds. So if you smell gas—we mean really smell gas—do not turn on the lights or use a telephone, cell phone, flashlight, or computer, all of which could create a spark, blowing the place sky high. Instead, haul everybody out of there and call the gas utility or the fire department immediately.

source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/photos/0,,20434090_20863285,00.html
this old house magazine


htttp://www.eastbaygaslines.com

East Bay Gas Lines - Danville - How do I Know What Size Generator to Buy for My House?

A backup generator can provide power in the event of an outage for essential appliances such as refrigerators, freezers, sump and lift pumps and a few lights. Estimating the size of the generator required means adding up the total number of watts used by each appliance you intend to provide power in the event of an outage. This information is available on the appliance nameplates or in the documentation supplied with each appliance. The more appliances you include, the more that can be powered, but the cost increases as the size of the generator goes up.

1 Make a list of the appliances you wish to power during an outage. Include refrigerators, freezers, furnace, and electric range, along with well, sump, lift or ejector pumps. Include the number of watts each appliance requires for starting and running. Consult the appliance documentation or nameplate for this information, which is expressed as watts, kilowatts or volt-amps. Calculate power requirements by multiplying amps by voltage for appliances that do not list watts, kilowatts or volt-amps.

2 Determine starting power requirements for appliances with motors that do not list the starting power needed, such as refrigerators, air conditioners, washers and dryers. Contact the manufacturer of these appliances or consult a chart that gives average requirements for these appliances.

3 Total the running power requirements for appliances which do not have different starting and running loads, such as incandescent lights, water heaters and toasters. Total the starting power requirements for other appliances with motors, such as pumps and refrigerators. Add the two totals together for the total power required.

4 Choose between 240-volt and 120-volt generators; 240-volt generators will run electric stoves, electric baseboard heaters, electric dryers, central air conditioning units and dishwashers. Select a model the provides both the voltage and the total power requirements needed to run the appliances you selected to have operational during a power outage.

 

source: http://homeguides.sfgate.com/size-generator-buy-house-2860.html
by Michael Logan

 

http://www.eastbaygaslines.com

East Bay Gas Lines Danville - Propane Service Piping - LPG Yard Line

 

The gas line that runs between the tank and the structure housing the gas appliances is the service piping, also known as the yard line. The propane yard line generally consists of copper tubing or plastic polyethylene piping. The service piping needs to be installed correctly and legally in conjunction with the propane tank for the entire outside portion of the installation to be safe and serviceable.

The part of the yard line that is visible is where it comes out of the ground next to the tank and at the point it enters the building or where it connects to the point of use, such as a generator or pool heater. Only approved materials and fittings are to be used for any part of a propane gas service line. Materials such as PVC, rubber hose and flex lines are illegal and are not to be used in any part of the gas service line.

Important Note About Underground Piping Materials - Allowable materials used for underground piping/tubing vary from state to state. The photos here depict copper tubing installed underground in a state where copper tubing is approved for underground yard line installations. Copper tubing is not an approved underground piping material in some states. Consult a licensed propane company in your state for more information about approved underground gas piping and yard line requirements.

Propane Line Depth Requirements

The yard line is subject to depth requirements for the protection of the line and connections on either end. Depths range from 12 to 18 inches underground, depending on vehicular traffic. The reason for this depth requirement is simple - the earth, dirt, sand or whatever is covering the line needs to adequately protect the underground gas line from damage. A copper line running under a dirt drive that is buried just a few inches underground can be easily crimped or crushed by the weight of a vehicle. Similarly, a line running on the surface of the ground can easily be damaged by accidentally tripping over it. The inadvertent movement of the gas service line can cause leaks to form at the connections on either end of the line. For these simple reasons, the gas line needs to be buried at a safe and required depth. Propane gas lines running along the top of the ground (pictured below) constitute illegal installations.

LP Gas Underground Piping Materials

The materials used for underground piping and tubing are subject to strict limitations. These material requirements are in place because of the unfriendly underground environment the pipe and tubing will be exposed to. Like underground propane tanks, buried piping and tubing must be made of a material that will resist harsh underground conditions. Additional protective measures must be taken in certain cases like placing the gas line in a PVC sleeve or wrapping it with a protective tape. All of these measures are for the protection against loss of propane. If unapproved materials are used for underground piping, propane leaks will form. Also, piping materials such as steel must be protected by sleeving or taping the service line or corrosion will begin to damage the piping.

source: http://www.propane101.com/lpgasserviceline.htm

 

East Bay Gas Lines - Water Heater Safety 100

 photo by Eddie Berman

 

Your gas water heater might look benign, but if it's improperly installed or maintained it's a potential ballistic missile that could erupt with enough force to lift your house off its foundation. Every year a few water heaters explode with devastating results. To make sure yours is safe, follow these simple steps:

Remove paper, accumulated dust or other combustibles from the heater enclosure.

Extinguish the pilot light before using flammable liquids or setting off aerosol bug bombs near the unit. Never store combustibles close by.

If the device is in the garage, raise it so the pilot light is 18 in. above the floor. This can help prevent ignition of gasoline vapors that collect near the floor.

Inspect the flue for breaks or gaps that could leak deadly exhaust gas. (This is a good practice to do on other gas appliances.)

Ask your service technician to check the temperature pressure-relief valve, a faucet-like device mounted on the top or side of the heater. Excessively high temperature or pressure causes this valve to open, relieving pressure and preventing a steam explosion.

Consider installing an automatic gas-shutoff valve (below) that stops the flow of gas if the ground moves or if gas flow increases dramatically. The valve, which costs around $300, prevents fires when a gas line breaks due to flood, earthquake or other disaster. Some utility companies will install one and let you pay it off monthly.

source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,214930,00.html

by Leland Stone

 

http://www.eastbaygaslines.com

 

East Bay Gas Line Repair - Gas Stove Burner Safety - East Bay Gas Lines Danville

Gas Stove Burner Safety

 

Gas stoves allow for precise heat control while cooking. In some areas of the country, gas appliances are more economical to operate. Take precautions to operate a gas stove safely. Improper operation could lead to fires, burns or carbon monoxide poisoning.

Carbon Monoxide

Any gas appliance can be a source of carbon monoxide, a dangerous gas that deprives the body of oxygen, resulting in serious injury or death. Don't use a gas stove as a source of heat, as this increases the likelihood of carbon monoxide poisoning. Make sure the stove is vented to the outside and the vent it not blocked. Install a carbon monoxide detector in homes where gas appliances, including gas stoves, are being used.

Cooking

The flame beneath a pot on the stove shouldn't extend past the sides of the pot. Use the right size pot for the burner and adjust the flame so that it doesn't flare up around the pot. Don't allow food to boil over. This could put out the flame, while still leaving the gas on, which increases the potential for a fire or explosion. Food that boils over could also block holes in the gas burner and lead to uneven cooking or difficulty lighting the burner. Don't line the stove burners with foil, as this could inhibit air flow to the burners.

Fire Hazards

Don't leave flammable materials such as dish towels near the stove. Don't set boxes, plastic dishes or items other than cooking pots on top of stove burners. Make sure you turn burners completely off after use. Don't allow pots to boil dry on the stove.

 Troubleshooting

If your stove won't light, first check that the holes around the burner aren't blocked with food or other debris. You can clean these with a piece of wire or a toothpick, though be careful not to break the toothpick off in the hole. On some stoves, the burner cover must be lined up correctly in order for the stove to light, so check this also. If the electronic igniter clicks, but doesn't work, try lighting the stove with a match. This will help burn off debris blocking the igniter.

Gas Leaks

If you smell gas, first make sure all the burners are turned completely off. If they are and you still smell gas, get out of the house and go to another location and call the gas company.

Even if you don't smell gas, if you suffer from persistent headaches, fatigue, nausea, dizziness or flu-like symptoms---especially if you feel better away from home---you may be suffering from carbon monoxide poisoning. Leave the house and contact the gas company to inspect the stove.

source: http://www.livestrong.com/article/138662-gas-stove-burner-safety/
by Cynthia Myers

www.eastbaygaslines.com

East Bay Gas Lines - Preventing Carbon Monoxide Problems

Quick Facts...

Hundreds of Americans die every year from carbon monoxide (CO) poisoning.

Carbon monoxide in the home can come from many sources.

If you experience CO poisoning symptoms, get fresh air immediately and go to an emergency room.

Prevention is the key to protecting you and your family.

Make sure your CO alarm meets the requirements of Underwriters Laboratories (UL) or International Approval Service (IAS).

What Is Carbon Monoxide?

You cannot see or smell carbon monoxide (CO), but at high levels it can kill a person in minutes. It is the leading cause of poisoning death, with over 500 victims in the United States each year.

Carbon monoxide is produced whenever a fuel such as gas, oil, kerosene, wood or charcoal is burned. The amount of CO produced depends mainly on the quality or efficiency of combustion. A properly functioning burner, whether natural gas or liquefied petroleum gas (LPG), has efficient combustion and produces little CO. However, an out-of-adjustment burner can produce life-threatening amounts of CO without any visible warning signs.

When appliances that burn fuel are maintained and used properly, the amount of CO produced usually is not hazardous. But if appliances are not working properly or are used incorrectly, dangerous levels of CO can collect in an enclosed space. Hundreds of Americans die accidentally every year from CO poisoning caused by malfunctioning or improperly used fuel-burning appliances. Many more people are harmed to some degree each year.

Common Sources of CO in Homes

Accumulation of combustion gases can occur when a blocked chimney, rusted heat exchanger or broken chimney connector pipe (flue) prevents combustion gases from being exhausted from the home. CO also can enter the home from an idling car or from a lawnmower or generator engine operating in the garage.

Another source for CO is backdrafting. When ventilation equipment, such as a range-top vent fan, is used in a tightly sealed home, reverse air flow can occur in chimneys and flues. An operating fireplace also can interact with the flue dynamics of other heating appliances. Again, backdrafting may result.

Other common sources of CO include unvented, fuel-burning space heaters (especially if malfunctioning) and indoor use of a charcoal barbeque grill. CO is produced by gas stoves and ranges and can become a problem with prolonged, improper operation -- for example, if these appliances are used to heat the home. Flame color does not necessarily indicate CO production. However, a change in the gas flame's color can indicate a CO problem. If a blue flame becomes yellow, CO often is increased.

While larger combustion appliances are designed to be connected to a flue or chimney to exhaust combustion byproducts, some smaller appliances are designed to be operated indoors without a flue. Appliances designed as supplemental or decorative heaters (including most unvented gas fireplaces) are not designed for continuous use. To avoid excessive exposure to pollutants, never use these appliances for more than four hours at a time.

When operating unvented combustion appliances, such as portable space heaters and stoves, follow safe practices. Besides observing fire safety rules, make sure the burner is properly adjusted and there is good ventilation. Never use these items in a closed room. Keep doors open throughout the house, and open a window for fresh air. Never use outdoor appliances such as barbeque grills or construction heaters indoors. Do not use appliances such as ovens and clothes dryers to heat the house.

Inspect heating equipment. To reduce the chances of backdrafting in furnaces, fireplaces and similar equipment, make sure flues and chimneys are not blocked. Inspect metal flues for rust. In furnaces, check the heat exchanger for rust and cracks. Soot also is a sign of combustion leakage. When using exhaust fans, open a nearby window or door to provide replacement air.

 

Figure 1: Sources of and clues to a possible carbon monoxide problem.
CO clues you can see:
a. Rusting or water streaking on vent/chimney.
b. Loose or missing furnace panel.
c. Sooting.
d. Loose or disconnected vent/chimney connections.
e. Debris or soot falling from chimney, fireplace or appliance.
f. Loose masonry on chimney.
g. Moisture inside of windows.
CO clues you cannot see:
h. Internal appliance damage or malfunctioning components.
i. Improper burner adjustment.
j. Hidden blockage or damage in chimney.
Only a trained service technician can detect hidden problems and correct these conditions!
Warnings:
* Never leave a car running in a garage, even with the garage door open.
* Never burn charcoal in houses, tents, vehicles or garages.
* Never install or service combustion appliances without proper knowledge, skills and tools.
* Never use a gas range, oven or dryer for heating.
* Never operate unvented gas-burning appliances in a closed room or in a room in which you are sleeping.
Adapted from "The Senseless Killer," U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, Washington, D.C.

CO Poisoning Symptoms

The initial symptoms of CO poisoning are similar to the flu but without the fever. They include headache, fatigue, shortness of breath, nausea, dizziness, vomiting, disorientation, and loss of consciousness.

In more technical terms, CO bonds tightly to the hemoglobin in red blood cells, preventing them from carrying oxygen throughout the body. If you have any of these symptoms and if you feel better when you go outside your home and the symptoms reappear when you go back inside, you may have CO poisoning.

If you experience symptoms that you think could be from CO poisoning, get fresh air immediately. Open doors and windows, turn off combustion appliances, and leave the house. Go to an emergency room and tell the physician you suspect CO poisoning.

If CO poisoning has occurred, it often can be diagnosed by a blood test done soon after exposure. Be prepared to answer the following questions for the doctor:

Do your symptoms occur only in the house?

Is anyone else in your household complaining of similar symptoms?

Did everyone's symptoms appear about the same time?

Are you using any fuel-burning appliances in the home?

Has anyone inspected your appliances lately?

Are you certain these appliances are properly working?

Because CO is a colorless, tasteless, and odorless gas that is quickly absorbed by the body and the symptoms often resemble other illnesses, it is often known as the “silent killer.”

Prevention Is the Key

At the beginning of every heating season, have a trained professional check all your fuel-burning appliances: oil and gas furnaces, gas water heaters, gas ranges and ovens, gas dryers, gas or kerosene space heaters, fireplaces and wood stoves. Make certain that the flues and chimneys are connected, in good condition and not blocked.

Whenever possible, choose appliances that vent fumes to the outside. Have them properly installed, and maintain them according to manufacturers' instructions. Read and follow all instructions that accompany any fuel-burning device. If you cannot avoid using an unvented gas or kerosene space heater, carefully follow the cautions that come with the device. Use the proper fuel and keep doors to the rest of the house open. Crack a window to ensure enough air for ventilation and proper fuel burning.

These problems could indicate improper appliance operation:

Decreasing hot water supply.

Furnace unable to heat house or runs constantly.

Sooting, especially on appliances and vents.

Unfamiliar or burning odor.

Increased condensation inside windows.

Proper installation, operation and maintenance of combustion appliances in the home are most important in reducing the risk of CO poisoning. Some rules are:

Never idle the car in a garage, even if the garage door is open. Fumes can build up very quickly in the garage and living area of your home.

Never use a gas oven to heat your home, even for a short time.

Never use a charcoal grill indoors, even in a fireplace.

Never sleep in a room with an unvented gas or kerosene space heater.

Never use any gasoline-powered engines (mowers, weed trimmers, snow blowers, chain saws, small engines or generators) in enclosed spaces.

Never ignore symptoms, particularly if more than one person is feeling them. You could lose consciousness and die if you do nothing.

Install Carbon Monoxide Alarms

In recent years, CO alarms have become widely available. When selecting a CO alarm, make sure it meets the stringent requirements of Underwriters Laboratories (UL) or International Approval Service (IAS). Modern CO alarms can provide warnings for even nonlethal levels of this dangerous pollutant. However, do not think of the alarm as the "be all, end all" to alert you to dangerous CO levels. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission recommends having at least one CO alarm in every home, placed outside of the sleeping area. Homes with several sleeping areas require multiple alarms.

Look for an alarm with a long-term warranty and one that easily can be self-tested and reset to ensure proper functioning. Consumer organizations such as Consumer Reports occasionally evaluate these devices. Some general points to consider before buying a CO alarm:

Some inexpensive alarms consist of a card with a spot (spot detectors) that changes color in the presence of CO. The absence of an audible signal does not meet UL or IAS requirements for alarms, so these devices do not provide adequate warning of CO.

Some CO alarms have a sensor that must be replaced every year or so. The expense of this part should be a factor in purchase decisions.

Battery-operated alarms are portable and will function during a power failure, which is when emergency heating might be used. Batteries must be replaced, although some alarms have long-life batteries that will last up to five years.

Line-powered alarms (110 volt) require electrical outlets but do not need batteries. They will not function during a power failure. Some line-powered alarms have battery backups.

Some alarms have digital readouts indicating CO levels. Alarms with memories can help document and correct CO problems.

If the CO detector alarm sounds:

Make sure it is your CO detector and not your smoke detector.

Check to see if any member of the household is experiencing symptoms of CO poisoning. If you suspect poisoning, get everyone out of the house immediately and seek medical attention. Tell the doctor that you suspect CO poisoning.

If no one is feeling symptoms, ventilate the home with fresh air. Turn off all potential sources of CO: your oil or gas furnace, gas water heater, gas range and oven, gas dryer, gas or kerosene space heater, and any vehicle or small engine.

Have a qualified technician inspect your chimneys and fuel-burning appliances to make sure they are operating correctly and that nothing is blocking the fumes from being vented out of the house

by K.R. Tremblay Jr.
source: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/consumer/09939.html

East Bay Gas Lines - Get to Know Your Gas Grill

Th Anatomy of a Gas Grill

Your steaks won't be sizzling this summer if your gas grill's on the fritz. Use this guide to identify parts and problems and keep it firing up just like new.

illustration: Harry Campbell


Burner Tubes

If flames burn unevenly or burner doesn't light, clean portholes with wire brush.

illustration: Harry Campbell

Flame

Look for dark blue center that transitions to light blue with occasional yellow tip. If pattern is off or flames are all yellow, turn off burners and clean portholes with wire brush. If abnormal color persists, remove tubes and ream out with stiff wire.

illustration: Harry Campbell

Burner Control Knob

Always wait until tank valve is open before turning on, or regulator may go into mode that restricts gas flow for safety.

illustration: Harry Campbell

Grill Hose

If burner doesn't light or flame is low, look for kink or check for leak at connection points. If leak is in hose, replace it.

illustration: Harry Campbell

Propane Tank

If you smell gas or tank runs out after only a few uses, apply soapy water to valve base and tank seams. If solution bubbles, there's a leak; stand back and call fire department. Check for leaks every time you change tank

illustration: Harry Campbell

Regulator

Controls gas flow from tank. If flames flicker and grill doesn't get hot, regulator may be in low-flow safety mode. Close tank valve, turn off knobs, detach regulator, and turn knobs to high. Wait 1 minute, shut off knobs, and reconnect regulator. Slowly open valve.

illustration: Harry Campbell

by ALEX QUEVEDOTHIS OLD HOUSE MAGAZINE
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/photos/0,,20292393,00.html

East Bay Gas Lines Danville - Water Heater Safety 101

Water Heater Safety 101

Your water heater may look benigh, but if improperly handled, it could erupt



photo by Eddie Berman

Your gas water heater might look benign, but if it's improperly installed or maintained it's a potential ballistic missile that could erupt with enough force to lift your house off its foundation. Every year a few water heaters explode with devastating results. To make sure yours is safe, follow these simple steps:

Remove paper, accumulated dust or other combustibles from the heater enclosure.

Extinguish the pilot light before using flammable liquids or setting off aerosol bug bombs near the unit. Never store combustibles close by.

If the device is in the garage, raise it so the pilot light is 18 in. above the floor. This can help prevent ignition of gasoline vapors that collect near the floor.

Inspect the flue for breaks or gaps that could leak deadly exhaust gas. (This is a good practice to do on other gas appliances.)

Ask your service technician to check the temperature pressure-relief valve, a faucet-like device mounted on the top or side of the heater. Excessively high temperature or pressure causes this valve to open, relieving pressure and preventing a steam explosion.

Consider installing an automatic gas-shutoff valve (below) that stops the flow of gas if the ground moves or if gas flow increases dramatically. The valve, which costs around $300, prevents fires when a gas line breaks due to flood, earthquake or other disaster. Some utility companies will install one and let you pay it off monthly.

source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,214930,00.html

by Leland Stone

 

http://www.eastbaygaslines.com

 

East Bay Gas Lines Danville - Making gas connections to steel gas pipe

 

Make connections to steel gas pipe

Older houses often have threaded steel gas pipe. If your old appliance is connected with a steel pipe and you're installing a new appliance, buy a gas appliance connecting kit and replace the steel pipe with the flexible stainless steel tube. But remember, you can't connect the flare fitting on the flexible gas line directly to a steel pipe thread. You have to install the flare fitting that's included with the kit.

Also replace old-style gas valves (photo below) with modern ball valves that are labeled for use with gas. Before you replace an old valve, you'll have to find and turn off the main gas valve to the house. It's usually located near where the gas line enters the house. When you turn the gas back on, remember to check all your gas appliances to see if they have pilot lights that need relighting.

The photo shows how to use common plumbing parts to join a new ball valve and a flexible stainless steel connector to steel pipe. Coat all threaded pipe connections with pipe thread compound before assembly. The valve shown has 1/2-in. female pipe threads on both sides. If necessary, use a bushing to reduce the existing 3/4-in. female pipe thread to 1/2 in. Use a 90-degree elbow at the stove to avoid kinking the gas tubing when you push the stove against the wall.

 

Steel pipe gas connections

Proper Connections to Steel Pipe

Use the fittings shown for safe connections.

 

Old style gas valve

Old-style gas valves can leak. Replace them with approved ball valves.

source: http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-Projects/Plumbing/Plumbing-Skills/how-to-connect-gas-pipe-lines/View-All#step1

 

http://www.eastbaygaslines.com

 

East Bay Gas Lines - Most Expensive Grilling Products Ever

Most Expensive Grilling Products Ever

Whether it's a stainless steel free-stander the size of a Ford F-150, or a complete outdoor kitchen with the beer bar built right in, some men measure each other's mettle simply by the quality of their backyard equipment

Keith PandolfiThis Old House online

 

Worth the Money

 

Men—like boys—love to show off their toys. From their perfectly polished Porsches to their plasma-screen televisions, nothing pleases guys more than keeping up with the Joneses—except outdoing and humiliating them as well. This is especially true when it comes to their grills. Whether it's a stainless steel free-stander the size of a Ford F-150, or a complete outdoor kitchen with the beer bar built right in, some men measure each other's mettle simply by the quality of their backyard equipment. With that in mind, we thought we'd show you the best lip-smackin', bank-breakin' barbecue products in the world.

 

Lynx Power Burner

 

 

About $1,775

Sometimes burgers and dogs just aren't enough to satiate your friends and neighbors. So how about cooking up a pot of chili, or some red beans and rice as a side dish? Or, heck, deep fry an entire turkey for that matter. This bad boy 46,000 BTU burner is big enough to accommodate a fat stock pot. Or, if you'd like to add some international flavor to your backyard, you can remove the center grate and slap down a commercial-grade wok. 

 

Backwoods Competitor

 

 

About $2,900

Sure it was designed for professional barbecue contests, but the Backwoods Competitor is also perfect for the man who likes to entertain the masses. This stout and smoke-stacked machine, which looks fittingly like a safe where one would store precious valuables, can cook a half dozen one pound turkeys, or 32 slabs of baby back ribs all at once. And what's more valuable than that?

 

Artisan Outdoor Pizza Oven

 

 

 

About $6,500

Say goodbye to Papa John's once and for all. This stainless steel pizza oven will fire up a thin-crust pizza in just five minutes right in your own back yard, and the heat can be adjusted to cook the pie of your choosing—from Chicago deep dish to Neapolitan. With all that money you save on ordering pizza, this $6.5K machine will pay for itself in—well—never, really. But your neighbors will think you're cool.

 

Kalamazoo 900 Series Hybrid Grill

 

 

 

About $15,900

Don't be surprised if you end up parking this stainless steel beauty in the driveway and Turtle-Waxing her like a 1936 Bugatti. The Kalamazoo 900 has 144,000 BTUs of cooking power—that's more power than most home furnaces, by the way. It's also got 864-square-inches of grilling area, and (best of all) cooks with charcoal, gas, and even wood.

 

 

 BBQ Concession Shed with Log Cabin Kitchen

 

Starting at about $24,650

Wanna make barbecuing into more of a profession than a pastime? This concession trailer from Southern Yankee Bar-B-Q could serve as your own small business—or at least a terrific tailgating tool. It comes with an 8-by-8-foot kitchen equipped with a fridge, sinks, and storage, as well as central AC, and some heavy-metal-worthy stereo speakers.

 

 

source; Keith PandolfiThis Old House online

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/photos/0,,20369275_20784793,00.html

 

http://www.eastbaygaslines.com

 

 

 

East Bay Gas Lines Danville - What is Carbon Monoxide?

What is carbon monoxide?

Like any fuel, natural gas needs enough oxygen from combustion air to burn safely and completely. Without enough oxygen, the burn is incomplete and carbon monoxide (CO) results. CO is a colorless, odorless, deadly gas. Because you can’t see, taste or smell it, CO is known as the silent killer.

CO is easily absorbed into the bloodstream, displacing oxygen, eventually resulting in brain damage or death. Dangerous levels of CO can especially affect unborn babies, infants and people with anemia or a history of heart disease.

What are the symptoms of CO poisoning?
Physical symptoms of CO poisoning vary, depending on the amount of CO absorbed into the bloodstream. The more CO in the air, the less oxygen in the blood and greater the danger.

Mild exposure	Medium exposure	Severe exposure
Slight headache	Severe headache	Unconsciousness
Nausea	Drowsiness	Convulsions
Vomiting	Confusion	Cardiac/respiratory failure
Fatigue	Rapid heart rate	Death

What to do if you suspect CO in your home or business:

• Leave the premises and get fresh air immediately.
• Call 9-1-1.
• If experiencing the flu-like symptoms of CO poisoning, seek medical attention.
• Call East Bay Gas Line for an emergency inspection.
• Do not return to your home or business until the source of CO has been discovered and the problem has been corrected.

How do I reduce the risk of CO poisoning?
You can prevent CO poisoning through proper appliance installation, maintenance and use. Follow these steps to protect you and your family.

• Have a qualified professional annually inspect your heating and cooling equipment. The contractor should check appliance vents for corrosion and blockage. The appliance itself should be checked for cleanliness, proper adjustment and approved connectors.
• Never operate a vehicle, lawn mower, snow blower or other fuel burning equipment in an attached garage, even with the door open.
• Do not use your gas range or oven for heat. Never burn charcoal indoors.
• When camping, do not operate a fuel-burning heater, lantern, or stove inside your tent or camper without proper ventilation. Always follow the manufacturer’s directions for use.
• Make sure your clothes dryer is properly vented and free of lint.

Why should I open a window when I have a fire in the fireplace?
It’s important that your home has adequate outside air for combustion when you have a fire in the fireplace. Insufficient air for combustion may result in a back-venting condition where outside air is pulled into the home through the furnace and water heater vents, spilling the products of combustion from these appliances into the room.

Newer homes in have been required to have a fresh air duct from the outside to the cold air return of the furnace. This is designed to provide adequate air for the combustion process in the furnace and water heater. However, the air duct may not be sized to also provide sufficient outside air for a fire in the fireplace.

Therefore, when you have a fire in your fireplace, it’s important that you crack a window one to two inches.

Why install a carbon monoxide detector?While the first line of defense against CO poisoning is a regular inspection of your heating and venting systems by a qualified contractor, a CO detector can be a useful second line of defense.

Like smoke detectors, there are many CO detectors to choose from. When you purchase a CO detector, be sure it conforms to Underwriters Laboratories standard (UL) 2034. Follow the manufacturer’s installation and maintenance instructions. Mount your CO detector in or near bedrooms and living areas, so you can hear the alarm from all sleeping areas. Look for these CO detector features:

• Audible alarm that stops automatically within minutes when CO dissipates.
• UL 2034 approved or American Gas Association certified.
• Light indicating power is on. Digital display that signals low levels of CO.
• Test button to verify that the detector is working.
• Manual hush/reset button that silences alarm, but sensor remains active so the unit continues taking readings.
• Manufacturer’s warranty – indicates life of equipment.
• Peak level memory button.
• Intermittent alarm to indicate a problem with the circuitry.

source: http://www.csu.org/residential/safety/Pages/co.aspx

http://www.eastbaylines.com

Gas LInes East Bay - Natural Gas Lines - East Bay Gas Lines

Utilities companies jobs are to ensure the safe reliable delivery of natural gas to your home or business. They operate and maintain an extensive network of pipeline, which includes miles of natural gas pipeline beneath city’s streets, sidewalks and yards.

Customer safety is our top priority, especially when it comes to keeping your home or business safe from the potential dangers of natural gas.

What are you responsible for?
Owning a home or business comes with a number of maintenance responsibilities. We understand that some of these responsibilities may even come as a surprise to you.

Customers are responsible for the maintenance of all natural gas lines extending after the meter to and within the home or business. Even though, in some cases, the natural gas service lines that run from the meter to your home or business are buried, maintenance is still required.

Our natural gas system is governed by Federal regulations which recommend that customers with natural gas lines buried from the meter to the primary structure should be:

• Periodically inspected for leaks;
• Periodically inspected for corrosion if the piping is metallic; and
• Repaired if any unsafe condition is discovered.

If natural gas lines are not properly maintained, they may be subject to potential hazards of corrosion and leakage. While the Department of Transportation (DOT) regulations do not require that you inspect or maintain your natural gas service line, Utilities companies along with the DOT recommend that you periodically inspect them for corrosion and leaks.

source http://www.csu.org/residential/safety/Pages/gaslines.aspx

http://eastbaygaslines.com