East Bay Gas Lines - How to Seal a Gas Line on a Dryer

Once you get your new gas dryer home, you must safely connect it to the gas line. A dryer isn't hard to connect to a gas line, but if you don't do it correctly, it could be dangerous for your family and your home. Improperly connected gas lines to dryers, for instance, allow gas to leak inside the home. Gas buildup can result in an explosion when ignited, and the fumes are not safe to breathe. After connecting your gas line to your dryer, conduct an easy test to ensure it has a good seal and does not leak.

1 Measure the distance from the gas line to where the dryer will be installed. Use the measurement to size the flexible gas hose connection.

2 Match the flexible hose connection to the gas fitting in the house. Gas lines in newer homes are typically made from steel or black iron. Choose the flexible gas hose to match the gas line. For instance, for a steel or iron pipe, use a steel flexible gas line.

3 Clean the threads on the gas pipe that extends from the wall. Gently run the wire brush around the end of the pipe to remove any burrs or debris on the pipe threads. Wipe the threads with a clean soft rag.

4 Apply the gas-rated Teflon tape or pipe thread compound to the threaded end of the gas line in a clockwise direction.

5 Thread the flexible gas hose fitting onto the threads. Then tighten the fitting using the pipe wrench, but don't over tighten.

6 Repeat the thread-sealing procedure for the gas line that comes from the dryer.

7 Fill the water bottle halfway with a 1-to-1 mixture of detergent and water.

8 Turn the gas valve on. The gas valve is on the gas line that extends from the wall. When it is on, the handle is in line with the gas line. When it is off, it is perpendicular to the line.

9 Spray the connection on the gas line that extends from the wall where the flexible gas hose connects to it with the detergent and water mixture. Watch for bubbles to form. If no bubbles form, there are no leaks.

10 Move to the gas connection on the dryer side and repeat the procedure for checking for leaks. If no bubbles form, the gas dryer line is sealed between the gas line and the gas dryer.

Tip

Double-check the pipe tape or pipe thread compound package to ensure each is rated to seal gas lines.

Avoid purchasing a flexible hose that is too short or too long. You don't want the line to kink, twist or compress itself.

Use a soft rag that doesn't leave any fibers on the pipe threads, as these fibers could compromise the seal.

Avoid over tightening the fittings, as you don't want to break them. For homes fitted with copper flare fittings, use the detergent mixture to check all the connections for leaks before using your dryer.

Warning

If you don't have experience or are concerned with doing this project yourself, contact East Bay Gas Lines to hook up your dryer for you. 

source: http://homeguides.sfgate.com/seal-gas-line-dryer-41449.html

by Laurie Reeves, Demand Media

http://www.eastbaygaslines.com

Unreliable Pilot Light - East Bay Gas Lines Danville

Question: Last winter, the pilot light on my gas furnace went out while I was traveling and my water pipes froze, resulting in thousands of dollars of damage. Can I replace the pilot with an electronic model that ignites automatically? And would this solve the problem?



Answer:  Many manufacturers have kits that will allow an HVAC contractor to convert a standing pilot light to an electronic spark-ignition system. The chief advantage of electronic ignition is lower fuel consumption and greater safety because there's no gas to leak if the pilot flame accidentally goes out.

But if your problem is low gas pressure, something I'm hearing more and more about lately, changing to a spark ignition wouldn't much matter. It will try to light the gas up to three times, depending on the type. But if there's not enough pressure, it won't operate.

All you can do is notify your gas utility so they can check on the problem. If inadequate pressure is indeed the culprit, then the company will have to fix its distribution network, and that could be a long time in coming.

source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/asktoh/question/0,,1075606,00.html
by Richard Threthewey


http://www.eastbaygaslines.com

East Bay Gas Lines - How to Convert Your Generator to Run on Propane - Danville

One might ask "Why would I want to have my portable generator running on Propane"? Generators spend much of their life idling away, racking up hour after hour of time. Usually these small engines require oil changes every 100 hrs or so, an amount that can be racked up in pretty short order for a van dweller or any other type of traveler that is relying on a portable generator to supply their electrical power.

Propane operated internal combustion engines run much cleaner allowing service intervals to be extended much longer. With this cleaner running engine you also greatly reduce wear increasing the longevity of your generator by leaps and bounds.

With the sizable investment required just to buy most portable generators, getting twice the life our of generator means your money went twice as far.

So the idea of having a generator running on propane makes sense, now you ask "How do I convert my generator". It's not all that difficult. There are conversion kits available that will make your generator a bi-fuel generator running on either natural gas or propane. Some models can even retain their ability to run on gasoline make them a tri-fuel generator.

The method used to allow your gasoline generator to operate on propane is to install in some instances an adapter between the carburetor that will supply the propane. Some generators require that the carburetor be removed or modified itself.

Beyond extended life and longer service intervals what benefits are there to switching to propane? If your Stealth Van Dwelling is set up with any other propane devices as most RV's are you can setup a quick disconnect propane line that can quickly be coupled to your generator removing the need to mess with gas cans. Danger of fire or explosion is much greater when refueling for transporting gasoline in cans. All this fuss can be eliminated with propane.

Most towable RV's carry at least two propane tanks. You can keep operating on one tank while you remove the second to get it refilled. When you return you can hook the second tank back into the system all without interrupting the flow of fuel to the generator or other propane appliances. Of course this is assuming you have a regulator that allows you to switch from one tank to the other.

Converting your generator to run on propane will eliminate the possibility of flooding the carburetor as it is impossible. Propane is a vapor right from the start. It's impossible to create the situation where you have gasoline running down the side of the generator because excess has also contaminated the oil in the engine and the plugs are wet and fouled. A common occurrence with gasoline, but an impossibility with propane.

Some have even engineered their own propane conversions as shown in this video of a Home Made Propane Conversion. Something not recommended as there are dangers involved with propane too.

I'm convinced already, where can I get a kit for my generator? Small Engine & Generator Conversion Kits is one source, U.S. Carburetor Kits is another source of kits and information. They also are an official factory authorized Yamaha Generator dealer and can sell direct to you portable generators of various sizes that come complete with factory warranties that will operate as tri-fuel generators. They can operate on either gasoline, propane, or natural gas with no modification necessary.

For a modest investment you can make this conversion knowing it will make your life a whole lot more convenient and practical.

source: http://voices.yahoo.com/how-convert-generator-run-propane-2633892.html
by Curtis Carper


http://www.eastbaygaslines.com

East Bay Gas Lines Danville - here's the help you need for your furnace and heater repairs

 

 

I can still remember the joy I felt when our old furnace fired up on all six cylinders (a.k.a. burners) and roared to life. I couldn't wait to see the expression on my wife's face when she felt the heat coming into our freezing three-bedroom condo.

The night before had been a cold one. The inside temperature had dropped to 57 degrees, and it was time to turn on the heat. Unfortunately, nothing turned on that dark and frigid morning.

 

After troubleshooting things like the thermostat and gas supply, it was time to have a look inside the furnace.

At 28 years old, it was an oldie but a goodie. It was really dusty though. Really dusty...So much so that a sensor (called a furnace thermocouple), had become covered in years of filth comprised of things I'll never be able to describe.

Needless to say, it couldn't do its job of detecting heat from the pilot and turning on the gas to the burners. It's a sensor after all...it's a bit like asking you to tell if a sunny sidewalk is hot through your shoes!

Happily, all it took was a quick cleaning and tapping of this small metal sensor, and we were up and running again... at least for that day.

As it turned out, while carefully cleaning the innards of our ancient machine got us warmth that morning, it did nothing for an underlying problem that only a professional technician could diagnose: a faulty gas supply valve, which had simply pooped out from age.

Today's forced-air heating systems consist of a furnace heating the air, a large blower (motor-powered fan) for circulation, and a maze of air ducts going throughout your home to deliver the heated air.

A separate system of air ducts is in place to bring back the air for re-heating by your furnace.

Home heater repair often comes when you most need to heat your home, just like us that cold winter morning.

The crummy part is that most furnace and heater repairs require a service professional once you've checked the basics.

The good news is that you can avoid a major heater repair through basic seasonal maintenance, routine cleaning, filter replacements and other adjustments.

It's not completely black and white of course because symptoms like a noisy furnace can be due to a little lack of TLC on your part, needing a simple tune-up or something more dramatic, like a broken component somewhere in the system.

All of this stuff helps give your central heating system a longer life and less need for repair. The most noticeable benefit to you is the cozy, warm house you have when it's really cold outside.

Gas furnace repair can be reduced by keeping the thermocouple, pilot and burner tubes clean. Limit your oil furnace repair by doing tasks like cleaning the oil burners and keeping them well-oiled.

Things can go wrong your system such as broken belts, fan motor failure or thermostat problems. Luckily these issues are rare...but they do happen because even a blue moon comes around sometimes, right?

My goal is to give you some basic furnace and heater repair tips as well as provide many of the maintenance items you can do to help keep your home heating system running so you can live comfortably.

source: http://homerepairgeek.com/heater-repair


http://www.eastbaygaslines.com

East Bay Gas Lines - Furnace & gas line safety tips

A gas leak refers to the seeping of natural gas, frequently through a pipe, which can endanger the lives of those in the area. While the fumes may cause health problems, the larger problem is the potential for an explosion because natural gas is highly flammable.

1)      Have your furnace and gas lines checked every spring and fall.
2)      If you ever smell natural gas (it smells like rotten eggs) open the windows and call the gas company immediately (don’t assess it yourself).
3)      You may hear unusual noises coming from your gas lines.
4)      Don’t turn on lights or use a cell phone.
5)      Don’t ignite or light a lighter, smoke etc.
6)      Clear out—immediately—and warn others to do the same.
7)      Do not start a car or any nearby machinery.
8)      If you’re in a building with elevators—don’t use the elevator.
9)      Do not try to manage the situation on your own.
10)   From a safe place, call the gas company and 911.

If you have not had your furnace checkup during the fall, call us today to schedule one

by Larry Howald

East Bay Gas Lines Danville - Gas Grill Maintenance

Photo: Courtesy of Wolf Appliances

Nothing announces the arrival of summer like firing up the grill. Unfortunately, nothing sours a summer party faster than a grill that won't light, smokes too much, or cooks unevenly. Grease, marinades, and sauces wreak havoc on gas burners, while charcoal grills suffer the corrosive properties of charcoal.

Grills of all kinds, from simple kettles to stainless steel restaurant-grade infrared grills, require maintenance to ensure that they perform and last. "At least twice a year you need to pull the grill apart to get inside and take a closer look at it," says Derrick Riches, barbecue and grilling guide for About.com. A thorough cleaning ensures that the burners fire properly, heat distributes evenly, and the grill is safe. Regular maintenance also allows you to catch problems like rust early on. Here is a This Old House primer on keeping your grill in shape.

Inspect the Chassis: Grills with welded joints or connections with pop rivets can rust. Scrub rust off with a stiff wire brush or coarse steel wool, apply a rust-inhibiting primer, and paint the grill's exterior with rust-resistant metal paint. Keep fasteners tight to ensure the base is stable and safe. Replace damaged grill appendages, like wheels, handles, or any other part of your grill, by contacting the manufacturer. You can also refer to the CLA Grills and Service website, or the Appliance Factory Parts website. Use dish soap or a mild detergent to clean cast aluminum grills, and Simple Green all-purpose, biodegradable cleaner for stainless steel ones. 

Clean the Burners: Riches stresses that cleaning burners keeps the unit working at its best. Burner ports can fill with grease and close up, leading to hot and cold spots on the grill. While the unit is cold, use a stainless steel wire brush or flexible pipe cleaner to remove the gunk from a traditional gas burner. The flames should be distributed evenly throughout the burner after a good cleaning. Brush off any ash that accumulates on infrared grills, and be sure to keep the glass clean. Infrared grill manufacturers suggest using Bar Keepers Friend, a non-abrasive cleaner, to remove any deposits. Running the grill for 10 minutes on high after cooking also helps keep the ports free of build up.

Flame Color: There are a couple of reasons gas flames turn from their normal blue with yellow tips to completely yellow. The most common is inadequate gas pressure from the tank. Since propane expands at freezing temperatures, the pressure bladder in the regulator (a round disk attached to the gas line) can freeze into place and limit the flow of gas to the burner. If you have a yellow flame, try this remedy: First, turn the tank off and turn off the grill's control valves. Next, disconnect the tank, then open and close the control valves. Finally, reconnect the tank and slowly turn the gas back on to check the flame's color. Another cause of yellow flame is pressurized propane that, over time, can force the burner ports to widen. As a result, too much gas escapes. Riches recommends inspecting the burners and replacing them if they are misshapen or cracked. Once the burners are cleaned, light the grill to ensure that all flames are blue and similar in height.

Grease traps: Grill grease traps are typically trays or disposable aluminum cups beneath the firebox that collect fat. Keep these traps clean and drained because large pools of grease can ignite. Burners combined with a grease fire will exceed the maximum amount of heat the grill can handle.

Hoses: Replacing a worn or damaged fuel line is an easy task once you locate the problem. Manufacturers suggest coating everything—from the tank, to the venturi tubes, which connect the control valve to the burner—with soapy water. For a neat job, Riches uses a basting brush to apply the soap solution. Then, turn the grill on. Any bubbles that appear on coated areas indicate escaping gas, which can be fixed by replacing the hose or O-ring. The gap in the venturi tubes mixes gas with air enroute to the burner and can easily clog with debris or insects. Riches recommends wrapping the tubes with aluminum screen to let air in and keep bugs out.

Between the Burner and Grate: Sometimes called the radiant or flavorizer bar, this part of the grill evenly distributes heat to the grate above and produces smoke when food drippings seep down. "Most of the wear is in the flavorizer bars, because they see the most heat and grease," says Brooke Jones of Weber Grills. Brush off grease and debris from the metal plates because they can trap moisture and cause rusting. Replace lava rocks or ceramic briquettes if they give off a rancid flavor.

Grill Covers: Keeping a grill protected from the elements is the easiest way to preserve it. Covers should have a cloth inner lining to draw moisture away from the metal. A simple plastic sheet holds moisture in, creating a humid environment around the grill, which can lead to rusting. Use a canvas, cloth, or vinyl cover that fits the grill appropriately. Keep in mind that UV rays beak down cheaper, generic covers.

source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,1638829,00.html
by Sal Vaglica

http://www.eastbaygaslines.com

East Bay Gas Lines - Gas Appliance Safety

  

When lighting any match-lit burners or ovens, always light the match before turning on the gas. If the flame goes out, turn off the burner and let the gas disperse before relighting.

Clean away any grease, oil or debris from the area around burners to help prevent fires.

Never use water to put out a grease fire. Use baking soda, or if a fire is in a pan, smother the flames with a lid. A fire extinguisher in the kitchen is also recommended.

Move any flammable objects — towels, curtains, calendars — away from range burners and other hot surfaces.

 

Ovens

Never use your oven for domestic heating. This misuse of your oven puts you at risk of burns from hot surfaces and shortens the life of oven parts and controls. Use only heaters that are designed for domestic heating and follow the manufacturer's operating instructions.

 

Make sure your water heater issecurely anchored to a wall. This will help prevent the heater from shifting and possibly falling in an earthquake.

If your water heater is on an elevated platform, make sure the platform is sturdy enough to withstand the weight of the water heater and movement during an earthquake.

A temperature of 120 degrees F is adequate for most household uses with minimal danger of scalding and maximum energy efficiency. Dishwashers require a temperature of 140 degrees F for proper disinfection and cleaning. Most dishwashers preheat the water to the proper temperature; if not, lowering the water-heating temperature is not recommended

Do not store flammable materials — mops, brooms, laundry, newspapers — near your water heater.

Do not store combustible materials — paints, solvents, gasoline — in the same room or near your water heater.

  

Your furnace should be serviced once a year to help maximize its life and performance. Follow the instructions in the owner's manual, or call a qualified professional.

Have your furnace checked for fire hazards such as a damaged firebox and any dislodged, clogged, rusted or damaged vents.

Clean or replace your filter regularly, or after each month of heavy usage.

Replace the blower door cover after checking your filter.

Securely fasten the door that covers the pilot light and burner area.

Do not store combustible materials — paints, solvents, gasoline — in the same room or near your furnace.

Do not store flammable materials mops, brooms, laundry, newspapers — near your furnace.

Air-supply vents must be clear of obstructions. Furnaces need a constant supply of fresh air to run efficiently and safely.

Kerosene heaters or other unvented heaters are not recommended and should only be used in well-ventilated rooms. Always operate your heater according to the manufacturer's instructions.

All Gas Appliances

Do not store flammable materials — mops, brooms, laundry, newspapers — near gas appliances.

Do not store combustible materials — paints, solvents, gasoline — in the same room or near your appliances.

Make sure a flexible gas line connection is installed connecting the gas houseline (the gas pipe connecting your appliances to the gas meter) to the appliance to reduce the likelihood of damage if movement should occur.

You should have an appliance gas shutoff valve installed at each gas appliance that lets you turn off the gas to that appliance only if there is a gas leak, or if the appliance needs to be replaced or serviced.

source: http://www.pge.com/myhome/edusafety/gaselectricsafety/gasappliancesafety/

 

http://www.eastbaygaslines.com

 

East Bay Gas Lines - Danville - How do I Know What Size Generator to Buy for My House?

A backup generator can provide power in the event of an outage for essential appliances such as refrigerators, freezers, sump and lift pumps and a few lights. Estimating the size of the generator required means adding up the total number of watts used by each appliance you intend to provide power in the event of an outage. This information is available on the appliance nameplates or in the documentation supplied with each appliance. The more appliances you include, the more that can be powered, but the cost increases as the size of the generator goes up.

1 Make a list of the appliances you wish to power during an outage. Include refrigerators, freezers, furnace, and electric range, along with well, sump, lift or ejector pumps. Include the number of watts each appliance requires for starting and running. Consult the appliance documentation or nameplate for this information, which is expressed as watts, kilowatts or volt-amps. Calculate power requirements by multiplying amps by voltage for appliances that do not list watts, kilowatts or volt-amps.

2 Determine starting power requirements for appliances with motors that do not list the starting power needed, such as refrigerators, air conditioners, washers and dryers. Contact the manufacturer of these appliances or consult a chart that gives average requirements for these appliances.

3 Total the running power requirements for appliances which do not have different starting and running loads, such as incandescent lights, water heaters and toasters. Total the starting power requirements for other appliances with motors, such as pumps and refrigerators. Add the two totals together for the total power required.

4 Choose between 240-volt and 120-volt generators; 240-volt generators will run electric stoves, electric baseboard heaters, electric dryers, central air conditioning units and dishwashers. Select a model the provides both the voltage and the total power requirements needed to run the appliances you selected to have operational during a power outage.

 

source: http://homeguides.sfgate.com/size-generator-buy-house-2860.html
by Michael Logan

 

http://www.eastbaygaslines.com

East Bay Gas Lines Danville - How to Light Your Furnace Pilot Light

 

When I first moved into this old apartment, I was surprised to see an enormous, old-fashioned furnace taking up a big part of the room. I'd never seen anything like it and certainly didn't know how to turn it on.

Now that I know how to light the pilot light of my Warm Manning furnace, it's a piece of cake. Here's how to do it.

First, locate where the furnace's pilot light is and where the gas on-off valve is. For my furnace, the pilot light is inside a little door located on the front, and the gas valve is inside a door on the side of the furnace.

The gas valve should be off, so push it down and turn it to the pilot setting (a 90 degree left turn for my furnace). While holding the gas valve down, strike a match and light the pilot light. The pilot flame should start burning. Keep holding the gas valve down for about 30 seconds.

Then, turn the gas valve all the way on (another 90 degree left turn for my furnace). The pilot light should light the rest of the furnace. If the pilot flame won't stay lit, try the whole procedure again. If it still doesn't work, you might have a clog. Try turning the gas off and cleaning out the pilot light opening with a thin wire. If this doesn't work, you might have to call an expert to help you out.

With luck, your gas furnace should be lit. You can then use the knob on the top of the furnace to adjust the heat. A couple warnings: when working with a gas furnace, always be alert about potential leaks. If it smells like gas, you should immediately air out the room and turn off the gas supply. Also, if your furnace is inside your living quarters like mine, instead of in the basement, be careful to keep potentially flammable objects far away.

That's all it takes to light your old gas furnace. The trick is finding the pilot light.

Source: http://voices.yahoo.com/how-light-pilot-light-old-furnace-5099347.html
by Wynn Murray

 

http://www.eastbaygaslines.com

East Bay Gas Lines - Water Heater Safety 100

 photo by Eddie Berman

 

Your gas water heater might look benign, but if it's improperly installed or maintained it's a potential ballistic missile that could erupt with enough force to lift your house off its foundation. Every year a few water heaters explode with devastating results. To make sure yours is safe, follow these simple steps:

Remove paper, accumulated dust or other combustibles from the heater enclosure.

Extinguish the pilot light before using flammable liquids or setting off aerosol bug bombs near the unit. Never store combustibles close by.

If the device is in the garage, raise it so the pilot light is 18 in. above the floor. This can help prevent ignition of gasoline vapors that collect near the floor.

Inspect the flue for breaks or gaps that could leak deadly exhaust gas. (This is a good practice to do on other gas appliances.)

Ask your service technician to check the temperature pressure-relief valve, a faucet-like device mounted on the top or side of the heater. Excessively high temperature or pressure causes this valve to open, relieving pressure and preventing a steam explosion.

Consider installing an automatic gas-shutoff valve (below) that stops the flow of gas if the ground moves or if gas flow increases dramatically. The valve, which costs around $300, prevents fires when a gas line breaks due to flood, earthquake or other disaster. Some utility companies will install one and let you pay it off monthly.

source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,214930,00.html

by Leland Stone

 

http://www.eastbaygaslines.com

 

East Bay Gas Line Repair - Gas Stove Burner Safety - East Bay Gas Lines Danville

Gas Stove Burner Safety

 

Gas stoves allow for precise heat control while cooking. In some areas of the country, gas appliances are more economical to operate. Take precautions to operate a gas stove safely. Improper operation could lead to fires, burns or carbon monoxide poisoning.

Carbon Monoxide

Any gas appliance can be a source of carbon monoxide, a dangerous gas that deprives the body of oxygen, resulting in serious injury or death. Don't use a gas stove as a source of heat, as this increases the likelihood of carbon monoxide poisoning. Make sure the stove is vented to the outside and the vent it not blocked. Install a carbon monoxide detector in homes where gas appliances, including gas stoves, are being used.

Cooking

The flame beneath a pot on the stove shouldn't extend past the sides of the pot. Use the right size pot for the burner and adjust the flame so that it doesn't flare up around the pot. Don't allow food to boil over. This could put out the flame, while still leaving the gas on, which increases the potential for a fire or explosion. Food that boils over could also block holes in the gas burner and lead to uneven cooking or difficulty lighting the burner. Don't line the stove burners with foil, as this could inhibit air flow to the burners.

Fire Hazards

Don't leave flammable materials such as dish towels near the stove. Don't set boxes, plastic dishes or items other than cooking pots on top of stove burners. Make sure you turn burners completely off after use. Don't allow pots to boil dry on the stove.

 Troubleshooting

If your stove won't light, first check that the holes around the burner aren't blocked with food or other debris. You can clean these with a piece of wire or a toothpick, though be careful not to break the toothpick off in the hole. On some stoves, the burner cover must be lined up correctly in order for the stove to light, so check this also. If the electronic igniter clicks, but doesn't work, try lighting the stove with a match. This will help burn off debris blocking the igniter.

Gas Leaks

If you smell gas, first make sure all the burners are turned completely off. If they are and you still smell gas, get out of the house and go to another location and call the gas company.

Even if you don't smell gas, if you suffer from persistent headaches, fatigue, nausea, dizziness or flu-like symptoms---especially if you feel better away from home---you may be suffering from carbon monoxide poisoning. Leave the house and contact the gas company to inspect the stove.

source: http://www.livestrong.com/article/138662-gas-stove-burner-safety/
by Cynthia Myers

www.eastbaygaslines.com

East Bay Gas Lines - Preventing Carbon Monoxide Problems

Quick Facts...

Hundreds of Americans die every year from carbon monoxide (CO) poisoning.

Carbon monoxide in the home can come from many sources.

If you experience CO poisoning symptoms, get fresh air immediately and go to an emergency room.

Prevention is the key to protecting you and your family.

Make sure your CO alarm meets the requirements of Underwriters Laboratories (UL) or International Approval Service (IAS).

What Is Carbon Monoxide?

You cannot see or smell carbon monoxide (CO), but at high levels it can kill a person in minutes. It is the leading cause of poisoning death, with over 500 victims in the United States each year.

Carbon monoxide is produced whenever a fuel such as gas, oil, kerosene, wood or charcoal is burned. The amount of CO produced depends mainly on the quality or efficiency of combustion. A properly functioning burner, whether natural gas or liquefied petroleum gas (LPG), has efficient combustion and produces little CO. However, an out-of-adjustment burner can produce life-threatening amounts of CO without any visible warning signs.

When appliances that burn fuel are maintained and used properly, the amount of CO produced usually is not hazardous. But if appliances are not working properly or are used incorrectly, dangerous levels of CO can collect in an enclosed space. Hundreds of Americans die accidentally every year from CO poisoning caused by malfunctioning or improperly used fuel-burning appliances. Many more people are harmed to some degree each year.

Common Sources of CO in Homes

Accumulation of combustion gases can occur when a blocked chimney, rusted heat exchanger or broken chimney connector pipe (flue) prevents combustion gases from being exhausted from the home. CO also can enter the home from an idling car or from a lawnmower or generator engine operating in the garage.

Another source for CO is backdrafting. When ventilation equipment, such as a range-top vent fan, is used in a tightly sealed home, reverse air flow can occur in chimneys and flues. An operating fireplace also can interact with the flue dynamics of other heating appliances. Again, backdrafting may result.

Other common sources of CO include unvented, fuel-burning space heaters (especially if malfunctioning) and indoor use of a charcoal barbeque grill. CO is produced by gas stoves and ranges and can become a problem with prolonged, improper operation -- for example, if these appliances are used to heat the home. Flame color does not necessarily indicate CO production. However, a change in the gas flame's color can indicate a CO problem. If a blue flame becomes yellow, CO often is increased.

While larger combustion appliances are designed to be connected to a flue or chimney to exhaust combustion byproducts, some smaller appliances are designed to be operated indoors without a flue. Appliances designed as supplemental or decorative heaters (including most unvented gas fireplaces) are not designed for continuous use. To avoid excessive exposure to pollutants, never use these appliances for more than four hours at a time.

When operating unvented combustion appliances, such as portable space heaters and stoves, follow safe practices. Besides observing fire safety rules, make sure the burner is properly adjusted and there is good ventilation. Never use these items in a closed room. Keep doors open throughout the house, and open a window for fresh air. Never use outdoor appliances such as barbeque grills or construction heaters indoors. Do not use appliances such as ovens and clothes dryers to heat the house.

Inspect heating equipment. To reduce the chances of backdrafting in furnaces, fireplaces and similar equipment, make sure flues and chimneys are not blocked. Inspect metal flues for rust. In furnaces, check the heat exchanger for rust and cracks. Soot also is a sign of combustion leakage. When using exhaust fans, open a nearby window or door to provide replacement air.

 

Figure 1: Sources of and clues to a possible carbon monoxide problem.
CO clues you can see:
a. Rusting or water streaking on vent/chimney.
b. Loose or missing furnace panel.
c. Sooting.
d. Loose or disconnected vent/chimney connections.
e. Debris or soot falling from chimney, fireplace or appliance.
f. Loose masonry on chimney.
g. Moisture inside of windows.
CO clues you cannot see:
h. Internal appliance damage or malfunctioning components.
i. Improper burner adjustment.
j. Hidden blockage or damage in chimney.
Only a trained service technician can detect hidden problems and correct these conditions!
Warnings:
* Never leave a car running in a garage, even with the garage door open.
* Never burn charcoal in houses, tents, vehicles or garages.
* Never install or service combustion appliances without proper knowledge, skills and tools.
* Never use a gas range, oven or dryer for heating.
* Never operate unvented gas-burning appliances in a closed room or in a room in which you are sleeping.
Adapted from "The Senseless Killer," U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, Washington, D.C.

CO Poisoning Symptoms

The initial symptoms of CO poisoning are similar to the flu but without the fever. They include headache, fatigue, shortness of breath, nausea, dizziness, vomiting, disorientation, and loss of consciousness.

In more technical terms, CO bonds tightly to the hemoglobin in red blood cells, preventing them from carrying oxygen throughout the body. If you have any of these symptoms and if you feel better when you go outside your home and the symptoms reappear when you go back inside, you may have CO poisoning.

If you experience symptoms that you think could be from CO poisoning, get fresh air immediately. Open doors and windows, turn off combustion appliances, and leave the house. Go to an emergency room and tell the physician you suspect CO poisoning.

If CO poisoning has occurred, it often can be diagnosed by a blood test done soon after exposure. Be prepared to answer the following questions for the doctor:

Do your symptoms occur only in the house?

Is anyone else in your household complaining of similar symptoms?

Did everyone's symptoms appear about the same time?

Are you using any fuel-burning appliances in the home?

Has anyone inspected your appliances lately?

Are you certain these appliances are properly working?

Because CO is a colorless, tasteless, and odorless gas that is quickly absorbed by the body and the symptoms often resemble other illnesses, it is often known as the “silent killer.”

Prevention Is the Key

At the beginning of every heating season, have a trained professional check all your fuel-burning appliances: oil and gas furnaces, gas water heaters, gas ranges and ovens, gas dryers, gas or kerosene space heaters, fireplaces and wood stoves. Make certain that the flues and chimneys are connected, in good condition and not blocked.

Whenever possible, choose appliances that vent fumes to the outside. Have them properly installed, and maintain them according to manufacturers' instructions. Read and follow all instructions that accompany any fuel-burning device. If you cannot avoid using an unvented gas or kerosene space heater, carefully follow the cautions that come with the device. Use the proper fuel and keep doors to the rest of the house open. Crack a window to ensure enough air for ventilation and proper fuel burning.

These problems could indicate improper appliance operation:

Decreasing hot water supply.

Furnace unable to heat house or runs constantly.

Sooting, especially on appliances and vents.

Unfamiliar or burning odor.

Increased condensation inside windows.

Proper installation, operation and maintenance of combustion appliances in the home are most important in reducing the risk of CO poisoning. Some rules are:

Never idle the car in a garage, even if the garage door is open. Fumes can build up very quickly in the garage and living area of your home.

Never use a gas oven to heat your home, even for a short time.

Never use a charcoal grill indoors, even in a fireplace.

Never sleep in a room with an unvented gas or kerosene space heater.

Never use any gasoline-powered engines (mowers, weed trimmers, snow blowers, chain saws, small engines or generators) in enclosed spaces.

Never ignore symptoms, particularly if more than one person is feeling them. You could lose consciousness and die if you do nothing.

Install Carbon Monoxide Alarms

In recent years, CO alarms have become widely available. When selecting a CO alarm, make sure it meets the stringent requirements of Underwriters Laboratories (UL) or International Approval Service (IAS). Modern CO alarms can provide warnings for even nonlethal levels of this dangerous pollutant. However, do not think of the alarm as the "be all, end all" to alert you to dangerous CO levels. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission recommends having at least one CO alarm in every home, placed outside of the sleeping area. Homes with several sleeping areas require multiple alarms.

Look for an alarm with a long-term warranty and one that easily can be self-tested and reset to ensure proper functioning. Consumer organizations such as Consumer Reports occasionally evaluate these devices. Some general points to consider before buying a CO alarm:

Some inexpensive alarms consist of a card with a spot (spot detectors) that changes color in the presence of CO. The absence of an audible signal does not meet UL or IAS requirements for alarms, so these devices do not provide adequate warning of CO.

Some CO alarms have a sensor that must be replaced every year or so. The expense of this part should be a factor in purchase decisions.

Battery-operated alarms are portable and will function during a power failure, which is when emergency heating might be used. Batteries must be replaced, although some alarms have long-life batteries that will last up to five years.

Line-powered alarms (110 volt) require electrical outlets but do not need batteries. They will not function during a power failure. Some line-powered alarms have battery backups.

Some alarms have digital readouts indicating CO levels. Alarms with memories can help document and correct CO problems.

If the CO detector alarm sounds:

Make sure it is your CO detector and not your smoke detector.

Check to see if any member of the household is experiencing symptoms of CO poisoning. If you suspect poisoning, get everyone out of the house immediately and seek medical attention. Tell the doctor that you suspect CO poisoning.

If no one is feeling symptoms, ventilate the home with fresh air. Turn off all potential sources of CO: your oil or gas furnace, gas water heater, gas range and oven, gas dryer, gas or kerosene space heater, and any vehicle or small engine.

Have a qualified technician inspect your chimneys and fuel-burning appliances to make sure they are operating correctly and that nothing is blocking the fumes from being vented out of the house

by K.R. Tremblay Jr.
source: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/consumer/09939.html

East Bay Gas Lines - Get to Know Your Gas Grill

Th Anatomy of a Gas Grill

Your steaks won't be sizzling this summer if your gas grill's on the fritz. Use this guide to identify parts and problems and keep it firing up just like new.

illustration: Harry Campbell


Burner Tubes

If flames burn unevenly or burner doesn't light, clean portholes with wire brush.

illustration: Harry Campbell

Flame

Look for dark blue center that transitions to light blue with occasional yellow tip. If pattern is off or flames are all yellow, turn off burners and clean portholes with wire brush. If abnormal color persists, remove tubes and ream out with stiff wire.

illustration: Harry Campbell

Burner Control Knob

Always wait until tank valve is open before turning on, or regulator may go into mode that restricts gas flow for safety.

illustration: Harry Campbell

Grill Hose

If burner doesn't light or flame is low, look for kink or check for leak at connection points. If leak is in hose, replace it.

illustration: Harry Campbell

Propane Tank

If you smell gas or tank runs out after only a few uses, apply soapy water to valve base and tank seams. If solution bubbles, there's a leak; stand back and call fire department. Check for leaks every time you change tank

illustration: Harry Campbell

Regulator

Controls gas flow from tank. If flames flicker and grill doesn't get hot, regulator may be in low-flow safety mode. Close tank valve, turn off knobs, detach regulator, and turn knobs to high. Wait 1 minute, shut off knobs, and reconnect regulator. Slowly open valve.

illustration: Harry Campbell

by ALEX QUEVEDOTHIS OLD HOUSE MAGAZINE
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/photos/0,,20292393,00.html

East Bay Gas Lines - Water Heater Safety is often taken for Granted

Water heaters are often taken for granted. They sit in our garage or utility closet and perform their assigned duty day in and day out. If installed correctly they will operate with little fuss for many years. Most of us rarely give the water heater a second thought, but they have a life cycle just like every other component or appliance in your house.

At the very minimum you should take a careful look at your water heater at least once a year. One of the most common points of failure is at the top of your water heater where it connects to the house plumbing. If the water heater was not installed with proper dielectric connectors, you will get corrosion where the copper plumbing meets the steel tank. Corrosion at water heater this area is often difficult to see. A tank can be five feet tall and when properly installed on an 18 inch platform, the top of the tank is 6-1/2 feet off the ground. This area can easily be over looked.

If you see heavy rust in this area, your tank is ready to leak. remember that your plumbing system is under pressure 24 hours a day. It doesn’t take much corrosion to eat through the plumbing. Even a small leak can flood your house. Even if your water heater is in your garage, a leak can find its way to the interior of your house. Water often sprays out of a small breach in the plumbing with such force that it quickly destroys the drywall, and gets inside the walls, and into your house. Just a small amount of water can destroy wood flooring, baseboards, carpeting, furniture, or personal items that are sitting on the floor.

Rusty water heater piping can cause leaks

In addition to looking for corrosion, look for evidence of soot at the exterior of the tank. This can be found around the burner compartment cover at the bottom of your water heater. If you are comfortable doing so, open the cover and look inside the compartment. Be careful of hot parts. If the water heater is on the inner cover will be hot. Once you remove the inner cover look for scale and rust inside the burner compartment. Old, damaged parts in the burner compartment can cause the water heater to remain on and over heat. This is a major cause of house fires.

Proper venting is critical to the safe operation of a water heater. Check the flue. It should be properly aligned with the top of the tank. And the sections of the flue should be well seated. Do not use duct tape on the flue. It can catch fire. An improperly installed flue can allow Carbon Monoxide to leak into your living space.

A general rule of thumb is to proactively replace your water heater when it has reached the end of its warranty period. That usually means that if your water heater is more than 7 years old, it should be replaced before you have problems with it. The price of a water heater is usually less than your insurance deductible. When in doubt, have your water heater inspected by a licensed plumber. It does not cost much and could save your family from injury, and you home from damage.

source: http://sdinspections.com/tag/water-heater-safety

http://www.eastbaygaslines.com

East Bay Gas Lines - Upgrade and Save Energy with Fireplace Inserts

Upgrade and Save Energy with Fireplace Inserts

Adding an insert is a smart investment that's pure win-win—it'll keep you warm and slash your heating bills all at once

According to the National Association of Home Builders, fireplaces rank among the top three features desired by new homebuyers. Unfortunately, fireplaces are also major air gaps—they can send up to 8 percent of valuable furnace-heated air flying out the chimney, making them really fun to look at but inefficient as heating sources. Here's the good news: You can transform your firebox into an efficient room heater by adding an insert.

An insert, installed by a factory-trained professional (to ensure proper venting and best efficiency results), will draft-proof an open fireplace while the unit's shell keeps heat in the room and away from the masonry. The cost can can set you back about $2,000 to $4,000 (pro install included), depending on the state of your existing chimney (does it need relining?) and the model you select. But this investment pays for itself by slashing those monthly heating bills. 

 

Upgrade and Save Energy with Fireplace Inserts

Adding an insert is a smart investment that's pure win-win—it'll keep you warm and slash your heating bills all at once

Pacific Energy Super Insert

 

This redesign of the popular wood-burning "Pacific" model now has a more refined look and can fit into smaller fireplace openings. The unit features an airwash system to keep its heat-conducting ceramic glass clear and one-touch adjustable temperature control. Variable speed blower included, to easily heat up to 2,000 square feet. Available in one- or two-door styles with gold, nickel, or metallic trim.

 

Lennox Ravenna Elite Series Gas Insert

 

This unit is will fit most factory-built and masonry fireplaces and features a realistic dancing flame over a log set cast from real wood. Blower delivers heating for up to 2,000 square feet via optional wireless remote thermostat control. Available in a variety of face options and inset designs. 

 

Enviro EF3Bi Pellet Insert

 

This model delivers the most heat in the Enviro pellet insert line of product, quickly heating up to 1,800 square feet. It features an ignitor, easy-clean ports, and a three-piece glass bay door for optimal flame-watching. Feed the hopper with renewable recycled wood wastes, dried corn, or another readily available economical source for your area.

 

QuadraFire Mt. Vernon Pellet Insert

 

This extra-large unit comes standard with comfort-quiet blowers to heat up to 3,800 square feet. Like other pellet models, it runs on biofuels, including wood pellets, corn, sunflower seeds, and wheat. Other features include a firepot auto-clean system, programmable thermostat wall control, and auto lighting and operation programs for different fuels.

 

source - This Old House online
by Tabitha Sukhai

 

http://www.eastbaygaslines.com

East Bay Gas Lines Danville - Making gas connections to steel gas pipe

 

Make connections to steel gas pipe

Older houses often have threaded steel gas pipe. If your old appliance is connected with a steel pipe and you're installing a new appliance, buy a gas appliance connecting kit and replace the steel pipe with the flexible stainless steel tube. But remember, you can't connect the flare fitting on the flexible gas line directly to a steel pipe thread. You have to install the flare fitting that's included with the kit.

Also replace old-style gas valves (photo below) with modern ball valves that are labeled for use with gas. Before you replace an old valve, you'll have to find and turn off the main gas valve to the house. It's usually located near where the gas line enters the house. When you turn the gas back on, remember to check all your gas appliances to see if they have pilot lights that need relighting.

The photo shows how to use common plumbing parts to join a new ball valve and a flexible stainless steel connector to steel pipe. Coat all threaded pipe connections with pipe thread compound before assembly. The valve shown has 1/2-in. female pipe threads on both sides. If necessary, use a bushing to reduce the existing 3/4-in. female pipe thread to 1/2 in. Use a 90-degree elbow at the stove to avoid kinking the gas tubing when you push the stove against the wall.

 

Steel pipe gas connections

Proper Connections to Steel Pipe

Use the fittings shown for safe connections.

 

Old style gas valve

Old-style gas valves can leak. Replace them with approved ball valves.

source: http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-Projects/Plumbing/Plumbing-Skills/how-to-connect-gas-pipe-lines/View-All#step1

 

http://www.eastbaygaslines.com