East Bay Gas Lines - How to Seal a Gas Line on a Dryer

Once you get your new gas dryer home, you must safely connect it to the gas line. A dryer isn't hard to connect to a gas line, but if you don't do it correctly, it could be dangerous for your family and your home. Improperly connected gas lines to dryers, for instance, allow gas to leak inside the home. Gas buildup can result in an explosion when ignited, and the fumes are not safe to breathe. After connecting your gas line to your dryer, conduct an easy test to ensure it has a good seal and does not leak.

1 Measure the distance from the gas line to where the dryer will be installed. Use the measurement to size the flexible gas hose connection.

2 Match the flexible hose connection to the gas fitting in the house. Gas lines in newer homes are typically made from steel or black iron. Choose the flexible gas hose to match the gas line. For instance, for a steel or iron pipe, use a steel flexible gas line.

3 Clean the threads on the gas pipe that extends from the wall. Gently run the wire brush around the end of the pipe to remove any burrs or debris on the pipe threads. Wipe the threads with a clean soft rag.

4 Apply the gas-rated Teflon tape or pipe thread compound to the threaded end of the gas line in a clockwise direction.

5 Thread the flexible gas hose fitting onto the threads. Then tighten the fitting using the pipe wrench, but don't over tighten.

6 Repeat the thread-sealing procedure for the gas line that comes from the dryer.

7 Fill the water bottle halfway with a 1-to-1 mixture of detergent and water.

8 Turn the gas valve on. The gas valve is on the gas line that extends from the wall. When it is on, the handle is in line with the gas line. When it is off, it is perpendicular to the line.

9 Spray the connection on the gas line that extends from the wall where the flexible gas hose connects to it with the detergent and water mixture. Watch for bubbles to form. If no bubbles form, there are no leaks.

10 Move to the gas connection on the dryer side and repeat the procedure for checking for leaks. If no bubbles form, the gas dryer line is sealed between the gas line and the gas dryer.

Tip

Double-check the pipe tape or pipe thread compound package to ensure each is rated to seal gas lines.

Avoid purchasing a flexible hose that is too short or too long. You don't want the line to kink, twist or compress itself.

Use a soft rag that doesn't leave any fibers on the pipe threads, as these fibers could compromise the seal.

Avoid over tightening the fittings, as you don't want to break them. For homes fitted with copper flare fittings, use the detergent mixture to check all the connections for leaks before using your dryer.

Warning

If you don't have experience or are concerned with doing this project yourself, contact East Bay Gas Lines to hook up your dryer for you. 

source: http://homeguides.sfgate.com/seal-gas-line-dryer-41449.html

by Laurie Reeves, Demand Media

http://www.eastbaygaslines.com

Unreliable Pilot Light - East Bay Gas Lines Danville

Question: Last winter, the pilot light on my gas furnace went out while I was traveling and my water pipes froze, resulting in thousands of dollars of damage. Can I replace the pilot with an electronic model that ignites automatically? And would this solve the problem?



Answer:  Many manufacturers have kits that will allow an HVAC contractor to convert a standing pilot light to an electronic spark-ignition system. The chief advantage of electronic ignition is lower fuel consumption and greater safety because there's no gas to leak if the pilot flame accidentally goes out.

But if your problem is low gas pressure, something I'm hearing more and more about lately, changing to a spark ignition wouldn't much matter. It will try to light the gas up to three times, depending on the type. But if there's not enough pressure, it won't operate.

All you can do is notify your gas utility so they can check on the problem. If inadequate pressure is indeed the culprit, then the company will have to fix its distribution network, and that could be a long time in coming.

source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/asktoh/question/0,,1075606,00.html
by Richard Threthewey


http://www.eastbaygaslines.com

East Bay Gas Lines - How to Convert Your Generator to Run on Propane - Danville

One might ask "Why would I want to have my portable generator running on Propane"? Generators spend much of their life idling away, racking up hour after hour of time. Usually these small engines require oil changes every 100 hrs or so, an amount that can be racked up in pretty short order for a van dweller or any other type of traveler that is relying on a portable generator to supply their electrical power.

Propane operated internal combustion engines run much cleaner allowing service intervals to be extended much longer. With this cleaner running engine you also greatly reduce wear increasing the longevity of your generator by leaps and bounds.

With the sizable investment required just to buy most portable generators, getting twice the life our of generator means your money went twice as far.

So the idea of having a generator running on propane makes sense, now you ask "How do I convert my generator". It's not all that difficult. There are conversion kits available that will make your generator a bi-fuel generator running on either natural gas or propane. Some models can even retain their ability to run on gasoline make them a tri-fuel generator.

The method used to allow your gasoline generator to operate on propane is to install in some instances an adapter between the carburetor that will supply the propane. Some generators require that the carburetor be removed or modified itself.

Beyond extended life and longer service intervals what benefits are there to switching to propane? If your Stealth Van Dwelling is set up with any other propane devices as most RV's are you can setup a quick disconnect propane line that can quickly be coupled to your generator removing the need to mess with gas cans. Danger of fire or explosion is much greater when refueling for transporting gasoline in cans. All this fuss can be eliminated with propane.

Most towable RV's carry at least two propane tanks. You can keep operating on one tank while you remove the second to get it refilled. When you return you can hook the second tank back into the system all without interrupting the flow of fuel to the generator or other propane appliances. Of course this is assuming you have a regulator that allows you to switch from one tank to the other.

Converting your generator to run on propane will eliminate the possibility of flooding the carburetor as it is impossible. Propane is a vapor right from the start. It's impossible to create the situation where you have gasoline running down the side of the generator because excess has also contaminated the oil in the engine and the plugs are wet and fouled. A common occurrence with gasoline, but an impossibility with propane.

Some have even engineered their own propane conversions as shown in this video of a Home Made Propane Conversion. Something not recommended as there are dangers involved with propane too.

I'm convinced already, where can I get a kit for my generator? Small Engine & Generator Conversion Kits is one source, U.S. Carburetor Kits is another source of kits and information. They also are an official factory authorized Yamaha Generator dealer and can sell direct to you portable generators of various sizes that come complete with factory warranties that will operate as tri-fuel generators. They can operate on either gasoline, propane, or natural gas with no modification necessary.

For a modest investment you can make this conversion knowing it will make your life a whole lot more convenient and practical.

source: http://voices.yahoo.com/how-convert-generator-run-propane-2633892.html
by Curtis Carper


http://www.eastbaygaslines.com

East Bay Gas Lines - Home Inspections that Failed

This potato is being used as a cap for an active gas line. Note that it did try to sprout.

Dan Howard

Photo  Dan Howard

This homeowner decided he would fix his dripping temperature pressure relief valve one way or another. A simple replacement would have probably taken as long as it took to get this rigged solution to work.

Brian Mishler

photo - Brian Mishler

This is an interesting example of someone who does not think gas combined with electric can hurt you.

Michael Legatt

photo - Michael Legatt






source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/photos/0,,20206857_20470632,00.html

http://www.eastbaygaslines.com

East Bay Gas Lines Danville - here's the help you need for your furnace and heater repairs

 

 

I can still remember the joy I felt when our old furnace fired up on all six cylinders (a.k.a. burners) and roared to life. I couldn't wait to see the expression on my wife's face when she felt the heat coming into our freezing three-bedroom condo.

The night before had been a cold one. The inside temperature had dropped to 57 degrees, and it was time to turn on the heat. Unfortunately, nothing turned on that dark and frigid morning.

 

After troubleshooting things like the thermostat and gas supply, it was time to have a look inside the furnace.

At 28 years old, it was an oldie but a goodie. It was really dusty though. Really dusty...So much so that a sensor (called a furnace thermocouple), had become covered in years of filth comprised of things I'll never be able to describe.

Needless to say, it couldn't do its job of detecting heat from the pilot and turning on the gas to the burners. It's a sensor after all...it's a bit like asking you to tell if a sunny sidewalk is hot through your shoes!

Happily, all it took was a quick cleaning and tapping of this small metal sensor, and we were up and running again... at least for that day.

As it turned out, while carefully cleaning the innards of our ancient machine got us warmth that morning, it did nothing for an underlying problem that only a professional technician could diagnose: a faulty gas supply valve, which had simply pooped out from age.

Today's forced-air heating systems consist of a furnace heating the air, a large blower (motor-powered fan) for circulation, and a maze of air ducts going throughout your home to deliver the heated air.

A separate system of air ducts is in place to bring back the air for re-heating by your furnace.

Home heater repair often comes when you most need to heat your home, just like us that cold winter morning.

The crummy part is that most furnace and heater repairs require a service professional once you've checked the basics.

The good news is that you can avoid a major heater repair through basic seasonal maintenance, routine cleaning, filter replacements and other adjustments.

It's not completely black and white of course because symptoms like a noisy furnace can be due to a little lack of TLC on your part, needing a simple tune-up or something more dramatic, like a broken component somewhere in the system.

All of this stuff helps give your central heating system a longer life and less need for repair. The most noticeable benefit to you is the cozy, warm house you have when it's really cold outside.

Gas furnace repair can be reduced by keeping the thermocouple, pilot and burner tubes clean. Limit your oil furnace repair by doing tasks like cleaning the oil burners and keeping them well-oiled.

Things can go wrong your system such as broken belts, fan motor failure or thermostat problems. Luckily these issues are rare...but they do happen because even a blue moon comes around sometimes, right?

My goal is to give you some basic furnace and heater repair tips as well as provide many of the maintenance items you can do to help keep your home heating system running so you can live comfortably.

source: http://homerepairgeek.com/heater-repair


http://www.eastbaygaslines.com

East Bay Gas Lines - Furnace & gas line safety tips

A gas leak refers to the seeping of natural gas, frequently through a pipe, which can endanger the lives of those in the area. While the fumes may cause health problems, the larger problem is the potential for an explosion because natural gas is highly flammable.

1)      Have your furnace and gas lines checked every spring and fall.
2)      If you ever smell natural gas (it smells like rotten eggs) open the windows and call the gas company immediately (don’t assess it yourself).
3)      You may hear unusual noises coming from your gas lines.
4)      Don’t turn on lights or use a cell phone.
5)      Don’t ignite or light a lighter, smoke etc.
6)      Clear out—immediately—and warn others to do the same.
7)      Do not start a car or any nearby machinery.
8)      If you’re in a building with elevators—don’t use the elevator.
9)      Do not try to manage the situation on your own.
10)   From a safe place, call the gas company and 911.

If you have not had your furnace checkup during the fall, call us today to schedule one

by Larry Howald

East Bay Gas Lines Danville - Gas Grill Maintenance

Photo: Courtesy of Wolf Appliances

Nothing announces the arrival of summer like firing up the grill. Unfortunately, nothing sours a summer party faster than a grill that won't light, smokes too much, or cooks unevenly. Grease, marinades, and sauces wreak havoc on gas burners, while charcoal grills suffer the corrosive properties of charcoal.

Grills of all kinds, from simple kettles to stainless steel restaurant-grade infrared grills, require maintenance to ensure that they perform and last. "At least twice a year you need to pull the grill apart to get inside and take a closer look at it," says Derrick Riches, barbecue and grilling guide for About.com. A thorough cleaning ensures that the burners fire properly, heat distributes evenly, and the grill is safe. Regular maintenance also allows you to catch problems like rust early on. Here is a This Old House primer on keeping your grill in shape.

Inspect the Chassis: Grills with welded joints or connections with pop rivets can rust. Scrub rust off with a stiff wire brush or coarse steel wool, apply a rust-inhibiting primer, and paint the grill's exterior with rust-resistant metal paint. Keep fasteners tight to ensure the base is stable and safe. Replace damaged grill appendages, like wheels, handles, or any other part of your grill, by contacting the manufacturer. You can also refer to the CLA Grills and Service website, or the Appliance Factory Parts website. Use dish soap or a mild detergent to clean cast aluminum grills, and Simple Green all-purpose, biodegradable cleaner for stainless steel ones. 

Clean the Burners: Riches stresses that cleaning burners keeps the unit working at its best. Burner ports can fill with grease and close up, leading to hot and cold spots on the grill. While the unit is cold, use a stainless steel wire brush or flexible pipe cleaner to remove the gunk from a traditional gas burner. The flames should be distributed evenly throughout the burner after a good cleaning. Brush off any ash that accumulates on infrared grills, and be sure to keep the glass clean. Infrared grill manufacturers suggest using Bar Keepers Friend, a non-abrasive cleaner, to remove any deposits. Running the grill for 10 minutes on high after cooking also helps keep the ports free of build up.

Flame Color: There are a couple of reasons gas flames turn from their normal blue with yellow tips to completely yellow. The most common is inadequate gas pressure from the tank. Since propane expands at freezing temperatures, the pressure bladder in the regulator (a round disk attached to the gas line) can freeze into place and limit the flow of gas to the burner. If you have a yellow flame, try this remedy: First, turn the tank off and turn off the grill's control valves. Next, disconnect the tank, then open and close the control valves. Finally, reconnect the tank and slowly turn the gas back on to check the flame's color. Another cause of yellow flame is pressurized propane that, over time, can force the burner ports to widen. As a result, too much gas escapes. Riches recommends inspecting the burners and replacing them if they are misshapen or cracked. Once the burners are cleaned, light the grill to ensure that all flames are blue and similar in height.

Grease traps: Grill grease traps are typically trays or disposable aluminum cups beneath the firebox that collect fat. Keep these traps clean and drained because large pools of grease can ignite. Burners combined with a grease fire will exceed the maximum amount of heat the grill can handle.

Hoses: Replacing a worn or damaged fuel line is an easy task once you locate the problem. Manufacturers suggest coating everything—from the tank, to the venturi tubes, which connect the control valve to the burner—with soapy water. For a neat job, Riches uses a basting brush to apply the soap solution. Then, turn the grill on. Any bubbles that appear on coated areas indicate escaping gas, which can be fixed by replacing the hose or O-ring. The gap in the venturi tubes mixes gas with air enroute to the burner and can easily clog with debris or insects. Riches recommends wrapping the tubes with aluminum screen to let air in and keep bugs out.

Between the Burner and Grate: Sometimes called the radiant or flavorizer bar, this part of the grill evenly distributes heat to the grate above and produces smoke when food drippings seep down. "Most of the wear is in the flavorizer bars, because they see the most heat and grease," says Brooke Jones of Weber Grills. Brush off grease and debris from the metal plates because they can trap moisture and cause rusting. Replace lava rocks or ceramic briquettes if they give off a rancid flavor.

Grill Covers: Keeping a grill protected from the elements is the easiest way to preserve it. Covers should have a cloth inner lining to draw moisture away from the metal. A simple plastic sheet holds moisture in, creating a humid environment around the grill, which can lead to rusting. Use a canvas, cloth, or vinyl cover that fits the grill appropriately. Keep in mind that UV rays beak down cheaper, generic covers.

source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,1638829,00.html
by Sal Vaglica

http://www.eastbaygaslines.com